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2016/06/01

Log 2016060101

Every fuse in the cab and chassis power converter has been checked.  I bought spare fuses and an employee at Camping World told me that there's nothing different about them, that the specification on the converter's door was just the manufacturer wanting the motorhome owner to buy their fuses.  I decided that I'm not going to tar the seams on the roof.  Instead, I picked up something while I was there that uses a brush to apply it.  And I got some crank handles, one of which will replace the one for the antenna tower.

Every USB port and one lighter socket on the 4 way splitter, as well as the main socket on the expansion lighter power port was tested for amperage on my car and the motorhome.  I'm not happy to announce that the tablet has a miniUSB v2.0 port.  My smartphone has a v3.0 because it's power hungry.  But so is the tablet.  I'm getting 600 - 750mA going to it because of the bottle neck at the tablet's port and that's the best that I can do.  The phone gets about 1200mA in the car and cab.

I just did a test another amperage test with my Samsung Galaxy Tab S2 (the tablet), this time with it's USB cable connected to it's stock AC/ DC converter and it was charging at least 1000mA.  I'm not sure that USB 2.0 should be able to do that?  Whatever that means, it means that it needs something more powerful in the motorhome's cab.  I have a 200W inverter already that I could plug the AC/DC converter into if necessary.  Those Web pages that I was consulting about the tablet's USB version could have been wrong.  But I'm unable to find where on the device it's stated, or anything that could detect it.

I tested the 4 pin electrical connectors on my car and motorhome.  While I don't know how to use the push button "range" feature.  But I can confirm that there's some kind of signal coming through all 3 ports.  So if there's any problems, it's on the utility hauling trailer.  Well, since the deck splits when it folds for vertical stage, I learned my lesson with torquing the wires last time and used two pins on a three 4-flat connectors (to accommodate both sides and the trailer tongue).  They make excellent diagnostic ports because I'm better able to locate the problem when one occurs and only have to replace that section's wire.

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