Last year, I used 14 bales of hay to insulate the outside bottom of my motorhome. This year, I have some kind of padded material and it's outside is kind of foil like. I'd even call it "space age?" But I just now had a thought. What if inside the shielding, I could stuff the bottom to make it more solid?
What I have coming up is I have to replace the hot water tank. Then I'll have to search for gas leaks. I'm certain that there's one at the stove. In case things go wrong, I need to be able to bypass bad systems, or directly plug them in one at a time. That could at least entail the installation of a liquid propane coupler from the outside to the in so that something like a 20# tank can remain out. Of course, a line from the inside port would connect to the hot water heater, stove/ oven or heating systems.
Or could I install shut off valves at each appliance and just use the main input line? If I did both strategies, I could accommodate a LP heater. A cylindrical shaped object that costs about $150 present day.
Right now in Far SE Ohio, I'm having a hard enough time "keeping the lights on." We have an annual maintenance contingent from the BTA's Road Fork/ Whipple Work Week, but it gets there in July and this place needs things to start happening in June for economic reasons. That needs local volunteerism, which we had in the past warm days, but this area has incurred multiple, successive calamities. And the best thing that can happen now is that we withdraw and regroup now that we're in the cold ones.
Adventurer's Project's Digital Mapping is slated to work on digital cartography well out side of its region. One idea that I have is in support of the North Country Trail Association's "End-to-End" program. I think that a regional+ transit project that would include passenger airports, Greyhound intrastate buses and a few local amenities would suit a trail of 4,800 miles well?
I'm not sure what the output will look like for the end user, but considering that their Avenza and Guthooks (I'm not sure what they use) basemaps are probably not drawn for this, it might end up being written on Adventurer's Project's website? But to do that, we'll have to pin point where everything is and that takes a map.
I'm a full timer and I have an idea on how to keep the heat in the winter. The front cab windows are huge and they bleed heat. Last year, I draped a tarp from the overhead bunk and that did some good. But my idea to better it is to cut some 1 inch foam ply insulation. I'd do the windshield in several pieces. I can use some light grade canvas from Jo Ann Fabric's and adhere it all together using hot glue. I used this canvas and hot glue for a modification to my hiking backpack and it held for quite some time. Anyways, the hot glue will melt the canvas a bit like a weld.
For the cabin windows, it's the separation between the glass pieces that's the problem. Just use some packing tape on those so that they'll come off easy with a razor blade when spring comes around.
I have full hookups, so last winter, I used my roof heater, which is electric. That acted like the primary heat and then I used a large electric ceramic heater as my secondary. But my gas systems are offline right now and last year I had a lengthy power outage. I live in very rural Woodsfield, Ohio. It's in Appalachia and every time a driver hits a utility pole, this village has power outages. But I have a new liquid propane gas sensor.
In the last week, the daily lows have gotten as down to 34°F. My previous heated hose broke last winter. So, I paid $138 for a new one. I upgraded the city water port to feature a "Y" splitter and put a pressure gauge on it. Well, this new heated hose has a higher flow rate and it was hard trying to control it. I have a 1988 Itasca Sundancer 25ft motorhome, so I have to keep its pressure down at 20psi, instead of 40 because the plumbing is old.