2016060102

My Samsung Galaxy Tab S2 (tablet with Verizon cellular signal) is experiencing a slow drain about about 1% battery per every 20 minutes or so at an average 210mA charge with the screen jammed on.  The active applications running are:

Pandora Internet Radio
Locus Pro (mapping app)
Screen Manager (the screen jammer)
Ulysse Speedometer (my 1988 motorhome doesn't have a trip tick)

It's tethered to a bank of the weakest front side USB ports on my desktop computer.  These ports are wired to a connector that inserts into some pins on the motherboard.  They're not soldered like the back side ports are.  This is a good test because I know that the ports in the motorhome's cab can at least double the amperage.

The 4 port hub has a 5A in-line fuse.  If the smartphone is pulling 1.2A and the tablet does 0.7 to 0.8 on the same 2A power adapter, I should just be able to get another 2A adapter (from Verizon just to make sure it's the right one) and increase the in-line fuse to 7.5 or 10A.  If anything comes through that the devices can't handle. those lighter power adapters have surge protection themselves and should be able to handle a problem if one occurs.  It's protection if I'm wrong about going beyond 5A because the splitter might not be able to handle it and it might fail and smoke on me one day?

Log 2016060101

Every fuse in the cab and chassis power converter has been checked.  I bought spare fuses and an employee at Camping World told me that there's nothing different about them, that the specification on the converter's door was just the manufacturer wanting the motorhome owner to buy their fuses.  I decided that I'm not going to tar the seams on the roof.  Instead, I picked up something while I was there that uses a brush to apply it.  And I got some crank handles, one of which will replace the one for the antenna tower.

Every USB port and one lighter socket on the 4 way splitter, as well as the main socket on the expansion lighter power port was tested for amperage on my car and the motorhome.  I'm not happy to announce that the tablet has a miniUSB v2.0 port.  My smartphone has a v3.0 because it's power hungry.  But so is the tablet.  I'm getting 600 - 750mA going to it because of the bottle neck at the tablet's port and that's the best that I can do.  The phone gets about 1200mA in the car and cab.

I just did a test another amperage test with my Samsung Galaxy Tab S2 (the tablet), this time with it's USB cable connected to it's stock AC/ DC converter and it was charging at least 1000mA.  I'm not sure that USB 2.0 should be able to do that?  Whatever that means, it means that it needs something more powerful in the motorhome's cab.  I have a 200W inverter already that I could plug the AC/DC converter into if necessary.  Those Web pages that I was consulting about the tablet's USB version could have been wrong.  But I'm unable to find where on the device it's stated, or anything that could detect it.

I tested the 4 pin electrical connectors on my car and motorhome.  While I don't know how to use the push button "range" feature.  But I can confirm that there's some kind of signal coming through all 3 ports.  So if there's any problems, it's on the utility hauling trailer.  Well, since the deck splits when it folds for vertical stage, I learned my lesson with torquing the wires last time and used two pins on a three 4-flat connectors (to accommodate both sides and the trailer tongue).  They make excellent diagnostic ports because I'm better able to locate the problem when one occurs and only have to replace that section's wire.

Log 2016053102

I got to the storage facility with enough time to change the fuel filter, but my ChiltonDIY account didn't want to login on my Tablet.  I just now contacted customer support and I hope that they can do something about it.  But if I remember from when I had it years ago, it only worked on a laptop or desktop computer then, too.  If that has to be the case, then I'll just bring my laptop.  But things are really "pushing it" tomorrow.  

I used a multimeter and tested the cab's battery.  It came back 12V just as it should.  And the motorhome started right up, which is odd because I was expecting that mystery power drain to kill the battery since I haven't started it in 2 days.

I needed to know the procedure for bleeding off the fuel line pressure so I could install the new fuel filter.  Since I'm at my desktop computer now, I'll just study the procedure tonight and bring the laptop tomorrow.

In the meantime, I tested the brake light signal on the trailer hitch and was getting about 0.8V on the multimeter.  However, I was not able to get the trailer hitch brake light to work.  And I forgot to check the turn signals.

I upgraded from a 20 to a 30amp fuse in the new cigarette lighter power port.  But the 4 way splitter that I have plugged into it only runs on 5amps.  The tablet is loosing more battery power than it's charging when hooked up to the USB power on it.  I just found out that my Samsung Galaxy Tab S2 only came built with a microUSB v2.0.  It really should have came with a 3.0.  Unless the USB port in the splitter is only 1.1, there's really nothing that I can do to increase it's power.

Well, I downloaded "Ampre" from the Google Play store for my Android smartphone.  And I've tested it out here with my desktop computer and the tablet's stock USB AC charger.  My computer's USB ports read at 450mA, while the charger comes in at 1200mA.  I bet that the USB ports in that splitter are cheap.  So tomorrow, I plan to test it's ports.  I have a USB lighter adapter plugged into one of the ports for my smartphone.  And I think I can vaguely remember specifically getting it because it charges at a higher rate???  So, I'll test that, too.  If it comes up at a greater power, it has two USB ports and I'll just use that for both.

Now, the splitter actually has a tip at the end of it's adapter.  It's only a 5A.  Seeing that both devices would need 1.2A each, there's still 3 other ports that could have something plugged into them, so maybe a 10A replacement inline fuse might be needed?

Log 2014122101

A replacement power adapter for an Acer Iconia A200 needs to be set to 12V and  tip positive.

Log 2014111201

My bicycle rim driven USB Generator arrived from usbfever.com in Hong Kong via the US Postal Service today, as well as the bicycle GPS mount for my Garmin eTrex 20.  That came from Guangzhou, a city in the Guangdong providene in the People's Republic of China, which also arrived via USPS.  As noted in this log previously, my former chain driven USB generator also came from Hong Kong.

Before the chain generator started to cease, it would only generate power when the chain was in motion. That was enough to prolong my smartphone's battery, but it wasn't always enough to stabilize it's pre-ride level.  Anyways, it only had a 1350mAh generator on it. I also had the cellphone battery and the chain generator connected on a parallel circuit (they were both directly connected to a 4 USB port hub).

In the past, the bike battery would shut off after about 10 minutes in that configuration when supplying power to both the hand GPS and smartphone.  I'm hoping that when I configure them next time to be in a series circuit, that I can generate enough power to feed them both and stay on.  But I'll say this for the new rim generator... it did not come shipped with any installation or operational instructions all.  But I think that will be alright because there's really not much to it.  Just the generator with mounting forks, two holes, two bolts with butterfly nuts and some rubber gaskets.

On new NiMH AA batteries, the eTrex 20 can stay on for 26 - 39 continuous hours without having to recharge.  Unfortunately, the device itself can not recharge the batteries. That must take place in a separate AC to DC wall charger.  And I don't see myself as needing power from the bike battery, or the rim generator unless the field GPS is out of power and I'm out of charged batteries, or the temperature dips down to less than 37°F.

Log 2014110301

The last time I had this system hooked up on my bicycle, I was using a chain driven USB generator.  But the generator's gear started to make noise and cause some resistance.  I was on the road at the time, so I had to cut it free and throw it in the trash.

At the moment, I'm waiting for a new rim contact driven USB bicycle generator.  Today, I picked up a couple cables at Micro Center in Mayfield Heights of Cuyahoga County.  I was getting help finding them from an associate who was informing me that the generator and battery could cause feedback and burn out one of my hubs USB ports.  That's when I came to the solution that I'll just hook them up in series instead of making the battery a branch off of the hub.

Since the USB bicycle rim generator is on order at the moment, in this picture it is represented by the cookie (in the package).  From the generator, it will go into the external cell phone battery's micro USB port (which is what it would use when charging).  The from the battery, the series will connect to the USB hub (that doesn't require additional power (like from a wall plug for instance).  I used a spare USB conversion bit and some all weather electrical tape to plug the empty port on top.  And from here, power from the generator and battery should feed into the GPS and smartphone.

I have the battery stationed at the top rear corner of my bicycle's frame (under the seat).  Either this or one of my other cables that I have lying around should be able to reach the generator.  But the battery to the hub will require an extension, which at the moment, I believe that I have.  Finally, I'll have to plug the bottom port of the hub considering that I'll no longer be using it for the bike battery.

I found out that the chain generator was only producing about 1300mAH of electricity.  My smartphone is a Samsung Galaxy Note 3 with a 7" screen.  It's power hungry and the battery runs on about 2700mAh.  For anyone reading this, your battery's power output will be printed on it (except for some of you folks using Apple).

Prior to this, I drove to the Medina Section, TP 17B - Abbeyville & Fenn Rd on the Ohio Transit Hiker's Resource's map and guide.  When I was routing this from the computer, knowing the area, I know that the traffic on Fenn can be aggressive and fast.  So, I was driving through at 1830hours and have made the determination to pull the unmarked transit spur and replace its waypoint icon with a warning one.  And rewrite the guide to warn all OTHR transit hikers that they shouldn't use Fenn Rd as a spur.

Log 2014070801

I've successfully split the power coming out of my chain driven USB genator.  What i did was purchase a 4-way USB splitter that does not require a supplemental power source.  Then I attached two retractable USB cables and plugged the remaining ports with USB cable attachments (like the ones that come with the retractable cable in a kit).

I did that so the ports would be plugged with something inert (doesn't complete an electrical connection). Afterwards, I used all weather electrical tape and I sealed every connection and exposed metal ends.

The employee at Radio Shack in Mentor of Lake County told me today that the store is getting rid of the rest of their un-supplimentally powered USB hubs and that they plan on discontinuing their stocking of this type product. That's because they're not powerful enough to keep peripherals stable when trying to establish a data connection to a desktop or laptop computer. But when all you need is to split power to multiple devices, they'll do fine. I've used one in the car before.

My smartphone is mounted to my handlebars, whereas; my field GPS is mounted with 3 loose zip ties on the top bar of my bike. One of them is looped around the center column.  I use my belt clip where I secure through one of those, then I use a mesh strap with a spring loaded buckle to tie the bottom of the lower portion of the belt clip. The problem is that the USB retracting cable has an attachment that is placed on the end to make it fit into the field GPS's USB port. Unfortunately, it is way too long to fit between the backside of the GPS and the top bar of the bike. Either one of two things will have to happen. Either I'll find an "L" shaped attachment, or I'll have to cut a new field GPS mount from something like wood and mount it to 1" rubber foam pipe insulation using some zip ties that will allow access to the USB port.

Log 2013121101

I attempted to purchase a replacement Samsung Galaxy S D-700 smartphone from SPlusDirect.com on 08 DEC.  The company sent a message on the 9th stating that they had found a part that was damaged during shipping and were quick to give me a refund.  They were very nice in their e-mail.

Today, I purchased a refurbished unit of the same make and model from ParagonR3 via Amazon.com. ParagonR3 is an electronics recycle.  And a copy of the order confirmation was made. I chose standard shipping, which stated that I should expect it in 3 - 7 business days.  The order is coming from Massachusetts.  Having ordered things for my computer repair business from around the country many times, I predict that the unit will arrive on the 16th.

Some people are going to look at this and wonder why would I use such an "antiquated" smartphone?  The biggest reason is that my unit, which hit the market in 2009, is still the latest model on Sprint's network with a pull out qwerty keyboard.  I've become a bit of a typist with it.  Another thing is that this replacement only cost me $70.  My insurance deductible would have been $100, and I'd have to pay about $400 out of pocket to purchase a new model smartphone... I don't have the money to do that and I need something now because it fits in my pocket, contains my task list, notes and day planner which are integral to my life.  And without such a device, I would have to carry a bag with a paper day planner everywhere I go.

So why aren't there any newer smartphones with a pull out keyboard?  The best answer that I got was that keyboard consumes a lot of power.  And I can confirm that when I went to from the Palm Pre to the Galaxy S.  In terms of power, in this case, I compare it to fuel, that switch was like going from the Honda Accord to the Cadillac Fleetwood.

On trips, I'm very power contentious.  Most of the time, I carry it in the "airplane mode" that shuts off the wi-fi, bluetooth, internet, voice and text message hardware while leaving the rest of computer on.  If I'm using my Bluetooth headset, well that just means that I have to do something similar, but I'll have to shut down as much hardware as I can manually because airplane mode will uniformally shut the Bluetooth as well :-(.

During on-board music playback when non-essential services have been shut off, my D-700 can run for about 8 hours if I play more albums and let the screen go black.  But on my bicycle, I have a smartphone mount.  And its here that I use my unit for GPS turn-by-turn navigation, odometer, and Pandora internet radio when available.  That means that for the entire time those services are running, my screen must also remain on for hours.  And that means that every piece of hardware on the smartphone is being used to its maximum potential simultaneously.  At this rate, I'll be lucky to get 2 hours of battery life out of the D-700.  So, I have 2 extra spares, and the batteries are usually marked A, B & C.  A & B are usually newer batteries and have longer life.  Battery C is usually the oldest. It's also the weakest because of how many times it's previously been exposed to a recharge.

When the third battery gets down to about 20% charge, that's about the point where I usually power the smartphone off to save it for something else.  Emergency calls can be made on 10%.  The extra ten are for other contingencies, like making a call or text to someone else, or having to use Google Maps to plot some other course if I need to leave my current route early.