Also, some automotive maintenance documents for my motorhome were moved to the Dropbox that I intend to use on my tablet.
Before I knew this, I tried to use the four unmerged tracks that I produced to get the total mileage, high and low points. But they just have to be perfect in order to do them. I checked those tracks with my USGS Topo overlay and those elevation profiles are definitely wrong. And I wasn't able to correct one of them with a GPSVisualizer conversion.
I'm testing the accuracy of my Maps route in Google Earth against Superior's GIS data. If it doesn't match up in an area, I have Google Maps Engine in my Chrome browser with bottom of the window moved up to see the global coordinates (in decimal degrees) when Google Earth is under it. When the area is the last thing that I hovered in in Google Earth, I keep my mouse in the same places as I press ALT + Tab on my keyboard and switch to Chrome. That keeps the coordinates in place.
Once in chrome, I can move my mouse over the search field in Google Maps Engine and I'll type Earth's coordinates and press Enter. When the map moves to that area, I can see if there's another trail in the area that matches the GIS's route. If so, I'll reroute and move the track to the correct path. When that's done, I'll save the revised route as KML to my hard drive, then open it in Google Earth and delete the incorrect track from before.
If there isn't a route on Google Maps as specified by an distance trail agency's, then I'll go back to Google Earth and delete the track anchors in between the affected points. I'm doing this as a part of a North Country Trail project, so I like to work from east to west. At this point, I have to redraw the correct path by hand starting in the east according to NCT's progression. The tracks have to written in the same direction to be merged.
A rail grade on the Superior Hiking Trail (North Country Trail concurrent) appears on the map. However Google Maps Engine won't route through it at 47.142827, -91.692487 that is north of Stewart, Minnesota. Satellite mode revealed that there's no longer a crossing there as if the road that it was on was shut down. If your working with this trail like I am, you'll need to get a track segment to end at it, then import it in to Google Earth and open it's properties. Once there, you need to extend the route over the tracks by hand.
At the time, I wouldn't have known how to overlay a park map like I do today, but I made one and found the missing link. There's a off-road trail in the Jay Cooke State Park, somewhere in excess of 6 miles long that is not routed by either agency. I attempted to make a post with screen shots of my Google Earth application to the NCTA's Facebook group, but my computer crashed while I was tracing the route.
With Division of Parks maps, the only reason I even try is to trace a general route of a trail that I can find elsewhere except tracking it on my GPS in person, or if I need to put down waypoints/ placemarks on it's facilities, it can at least get me close, or close to finding them.
When it comes to merging track, Minnesota is a different challenge because the North Country Trail is concurrent with 3 hiking trail agencies. And my goal is to merge the state's track into one so I can view it's total mileage, high and low points. Well, Ohio is like this and I've already merged it's data. The way that this is going to go is that each agency will reveal it's numbers. Then North Country independently will have it's. I'll report on all that and the overall length, high & low points for it's route in Minnesota.
Seeing as if I even get that far... This is a side project because I have nothing better to do. I don't subscribe cable TV, so I always keep myself busy with something. But, if I get my motorhome fixed, I might be down trail soon. And resuming this North Country merge project is something that I'd reserve for the winter. And even at that, since I don't plan on hiking there anytime soon, I'm afraid to say that it isn't a priority.
In NCT's direction of progression, everyone of those tracks must start in the east and terminate in the west. I routed the on road and part of one of the canals in the westbound direction, so their ready. And I already know that one of the tracks is eastbound. It and possibly the others will need to be reversed before a merge is attempted. Some of the remaining original tracks might be very small. They'll need to be overtaken by hand from a nearby track and deleted.
This data might get me an unofficial total mileage for this state and show me where the highest and lowest points are.
We're still without a weed whacker on the section. Headquarters of the Buckeye Trail Association issued me one, but it's being looked at by another volunteer. But had the motorhome not been purchased so early, last month, I was supposed to purchase a professional model by Stihl as a part of my own gear.
What Dropsync does is it synchronizes and downloads any new information sent to a Dropbox account. Dropbox allows users to select certain files to always be "off-line," but my set up needs entire Dropbox folders that are updated to be ready when I don't have cellular signal. Dropsync does this.
Normally on Dropbox, whatever the account has sits on the cloud before one of my other devices selects the file and downloads it over my cellular data signal, or WiFi. When it comes time for me to need one of these, I might be in a place that has neither. So, on my Dropbox account, I added a "Transfer" folder with a "Smartphone" and "Tablet" sub-folders. When I create a map on my more powerful desktop computer, up to an hour after I save it, Dropsync will automatically download the files to both devices. At that point it won't need any external signals. By the 1970's definition of a computer, smartphones and tablets meet the criteria. They can function off-line so long as the files are.
Take smartphone and tablet navigation for instance. I use the Locus app on Android because I can download maps for offline use with the Buckeye, North Country Trail's data as well as that of my own. This is somewhat of a re-occuring topic on the Buckeye Trail Association's Facebook group, so while I'm here, let me state some of the the pros and cons of this...
The pros... if your a day hiker and you already own the device, you might as well use it. Some of us have spent between $400 - $800+ on our smartphones. Why buy a separate hand GPS that's going to cost an extra $150+? Some say that because the GPS antenna is smaller, that the position on the map is inaccurate. But I have a Samsung Galaxy Note 3 and I find that the placement of my waypoints and geotagged photos rival that of my Garmin eTrex 20 hand GPS. But, I can't say that about my previous smartphone.
The cons... they're power hungry. A hand GPS on rechargeable AA size NiMH batteries can run for 3 hiking days if the screen is allowed to dim when it's not being used. Smartphone's have separate componentry in them for Wi-Fi, Bluetooth, GPS and cellular signal. They have to supply power to their storage, main boards, screens and all these soldered components.
Well, a hand GPS is a dedicated device. By far and large, it only does one thing without all the extra components. A smartphone ran as I described for a hand GPS is going to expend a battery once every day, perhaps every 3/4ths of a day. On a hiking trip of a week, it will take about 180 minutes to recharge all of them with the use of an external battery charger, while hand GPS will charge that which it expends in those 7 days in only 45 minutes (with a high speed charger).
If I got a breaker bar a few weeks ago just in case I'll ever have to change wheels. But what I really want to get is a 5ft steel tube to put around it to give me some more torque. And the best thing that I can think of is to use a spare lever from an automotive shop jack. That's because it's made to come apart and it will transport easier that way.
I just posted on the Buckeye Trail's Facebook group about how to make these. There's no resource that I know of that can compare the location of cellular signal to the trail. Because if you take Buckeye's maps and try to compare them with Verizon's, both are drawn to scale, but the latter doesn't have enough detail to even vaguely lock on the right area sometimes. They both have to be put together if you're looking for some kind of coverage between cities and villages. And when the trail is on road, it's routed on the right-of-ways with the least traffic that gets the most scenic value. That in of itself can make comparing these two maps difficult.
Usually I only do "call & text" coverage areas. But as I'm going to be on a mixed mode adventure that's going to be something like hiking out and cycling back, rather than plan routes that I may not use, I'd rather know where the data coverage is so I can plot my trip back on Google Maps. I still have the Scioto Trail, Sinking Spring, Shawnee and the West Union Section to complete.
Now these files are not shared on the cloud. So, the images aren't linked to a location on the web. With that said, it's hard to share the Google Earth KML/ KMZ file because the end user would have to download the images to their hard disk drive, then modify all the locations in the Earth file to get them to display right. I don't even plan on sharing them with others because the demand for this data is low. Not to mention that this coverage is subject to change, so as a project, it would become a revolving matter indefinitely and require the time of a dedicated volunteer to infrequently monitor it.
Smartphones and library computers can be a asset to multi-day+ hikers particularly because they can send press releases. There's even a way to use Internet services to send US Mail and facsimiles (faxes). But here in Ohio, some of the libraries require that get a card with them to use a computer. If you're a resident of Ohio and this is so, then what I've done was sign up for the card, used the computer and then surrendered it before I walked out. If your not a resident of Ohio, you might not be able to get a library card in this state.
But most libraries in Ohio that I've been to down trail either don't require anything, or they have you take out what's usually known as a "guest pass." Neither one requires residency. Currently at this time, I do not have these card/ residency requiring libraries mapped out.
One of the bolts on the car's full size spare holder on the trailer need to be cut of with a hacksaw. Otherwise, I replaced the mounting bolts in both the full size car and trailer spare tire holders. The spare tire well in my 2008 Chevy HHR LS isn't large enough for a full size spare. And I wouldn't dare tow with the dough nut, especially if it had to be on one of the rear wheels. And I usually never tow my utility hauling trailer without a spare wheel for it. So that's why they both mount to the trailer's tongue.
Well, the last time I ran the auxiliary generator was after I replaced the fuel filter and it fired right up. Today, it reverted to the same symptom and wouldn't turn over. So, I couldn't power the mini shop vac to do it.
- Front and rear marker lights: 4 inches long
- Tires: LT215/85R16
- Auxiliary Generator: Onan Emerald I Gen Set 4.0 BGE
- Spark Plug Gap: 0.44 inches
- Engine: 5.8L V8 Ford 351 Windsor
- Front Axle "I" Beam Clearance: 10 - 3/4 inches
- Exhaust Clearance (lowest point below the header): 10 - 3/4th inches
- Rear Axle Transfer Case Clearance: 7 - 1/2 inches
- Auxiliary Generator Muffler Clearance: 14 inches
- Rear Tail and Reverse Light: REFLECT-O-LITE Model #1410
Also marked "SAE - AIRST - 76"
There are two filters in the air filter manifold. One is the air filter and the other is the "air breather" that attaches to a rubber hose. Today, I purchased a replacement air breather and gasoline cap. At the auto parts store, the gas cap was behind the counter, but the air breather wasn't. Today was also the first time that I dismounted a hub cap to view the tire stems. I don't have a system that combines them into one convenient stem. So I placed an order online today to get some valve extenders because two of the four wheels have their stems mounted backwards towards the back of the rims. Since my portable battery jump box has a tire inflater with bicycle pump like 90° nozzle, for the time being it will do. But if I ever have to use a commercial air machine, I doubt that their long stem will have enough clearance inside of the rim's bowl to mount to them.
I also purchased some waterproof dry bags. One is for my mini shop vacuum, hose and attachments. The other is for all of my bungee cords and roof straps that either use on the tarp that I'm covering the outside of above cab sleeping area with (I have water damage), or with my the utility hauling trailer.
The problem now is that my OBD II port is located next to my left leg in the driver's compartment and I'm afraid that I kick it and damage the adapter, or the port. So I need an low profile extension cable to connect and redirect the adapter somewhere else. There's been some posts online about people dismounting their ports so that it's free, but I'm just not comfortable with that. Personally, I like the port being right where it is.
One of these days, I hope to find the OBD I port in my 1988 Ford Econoline 350 (E-350) cutaway and get a similar device that will Bluetooth to the tablet that I have on board. At the moment, that's one engine that I would like more data on.
I took my 1988 Itasca Sundancer 25ft motorhome [with a 1988 Ford Econoline 350 (E - 350) cutaway] out for a drive on some some roads that had approximately 50 - 100ft elevation gains and after about 40 miles, it still had the same old problems accelerating and going up hill. It's definitely getting weaker. It almost barely made it back to storage.
About a mile from it, I barely made a turn on to a road on flat land and then into a parking lot. I shut off the engine then realized that it cocked in the parking lot. Thinking that I was going to sit at the bar until the wrecker came, I turned the engine back over, but it in reverse and it started acting normal again. At that point, I left, "made a run for it" and got back to the storage facility without a problem.
But out of curiosity, I put my hand on the hood and felt that it was hot. Now my temperature gauge in the cab has always read that it's been in the "normal" range. But there's two possible problems. One is that it's a 28 year old American auto. The other is that one of those dead mud dabble straw nests is insulating the sensor and fooling me into thinking everything is fine.
I can rule out the cooling fan because it's not electric. Instead it has a housing on the belt system that would have to run all the time. Tomorrow, I plan on checking the levels and east color before I replace the fuel pump.
Lastly, with my new Insignia 6ft Coiled Car Charger MicroUSB, the Tablet held its charge. I couldn't measure the devices amperage because the battery was at 100%. It runs on 12 watts and 2.4 ampres.
Without an actual Econoline 350 Club Wagon at my disposal, from what I can gather online, they should weigh about 7,000lbs. My motorhome weighs 11,500lbs. Which means that the same 351W engine is carrying 4,500lbs more without towing anything. The best manual that I could find was for a '93 Sundancer and it stated something like a tow capacity that was similar to the back axle's weight of my '88. But when subtracting the numbers on the door panel, that only comes to 500lbs. But it came with a Class III hitch. All you need for 500lbs is a I, or II. I'll find out tomorrow if I should even consider dolling the car?
The fuel filter for my 1988 Itasca Sundancer 25ft motorhome is on the bottom. And I believe that it's fuel pump on on top. Don't quote me on the fuel pump as my HHR's is on the gas tank and I still need to put a few more hours in just exploring the Ford Econoline 350 side of the motorhome. This was directly under the driver's seat on the inside of the beam on the driver's side of the frame. I'm somewhat slender and I drug my back along the ground under the driver's side runner board to get to it. Unfortunately, I didn't have enough room to get a better shot, but this is looking from the front and to the rear of the vehicle. The fuel filter is strapped to that triangular piece with a hose clamp feeding through it.
I changed the fuel filter on my 1988 Itasca Sundancer 25ft motorhome. Because I'm slim enough, I was able to do it without putting it on ramps. But the #1 & 5 spark plugs were in an awkward place. They're on the engine block just forward of the firewall. And the only way I could see them was through a hole in axle. They're angled, so if I managed to get them off, I'm not sure that I could get the replacement's back on and not cross thread them. I might be able to do this in the future, but right now, I think that I'd a mechanic. But with some appointments coming up, I might try anyways?
I didn't have enough time to do a full road test today. But the auxiliary generator easily turned over. Since that piece of equipment is in back of the gasoline tank, it seems that the fuel line for it must be over 20ft long to meet to meet the fuel filter?
I guess so... Both engines run much cleaner. But with running out of time today, I'll have to put it on a shakedown cruise tomorrow.
Wait a minute... (they're mud) they could be washed off.
I just bought a 2 sets of Rhino Ramps rated at 16,000lbs per set. The motorhome is only 11,500lbs. When I was taking them to the register, one of the employees at the auto parts store said "you know that each of them is a set, right." But he probably didn't know that I was lifting a motorhome with duallies (my motorhome is a 6 wheel vehicle with 4 in the back, or two on each side) on the on the back axle?
I got those because the rear axle is too low for me to crawl under far enough to see the front of the gasoline tank. I went looking for the fuel filter earlier. I couldn't find it. Then I went looking for the fuel pump... I couldn't find that either. From what I've heard with F-150's of this area, the fuel filter should be about 1ft behind the area where the driver's side seat mounts. That would be nice if it's there, but I have ChiltonsDIY as my repair manual and it's on the Internet only. It doesn't have many pictures.
I purchased an external wireless keyboard and touch pad combination for my laptop so I don't get it's keys dirty. The auto parts store said that it could take 6 days for me to get a Haynes manual for the Econoline. I'm not even supposed to be here now.
All I have to do is follow the fuel lines from the gas tank (pending that I can get close enough) towards the engine and I will arrive at the filter somewhere. It will be nice to finally have it changed. I normally work on the motorhome at my storage unit. But lifting it there is out of the question. It's an uneven dirt surface and the management doesn't want me doing it there. So, I'm going to squeeze it in to another driveway and lift it there.
Because of it's age and the fact that I haven't seen the rear brakes yet, not knowing where the mechanism is, I'm not too sure about the parking brake cable. But I have chalks and they'll work fine on the front wheels when the back end is up. And then I believe that the transmission will hold it from there.
While I'm there, I might have a second person to help feed the spark plug wires, too?
Pandora Internet Radio
Locus Pro (mapping app)
Screen Manager (the screen jammer)
Ulysse Speedometer (my 1988 motorhome doesn't have a trip tick)
It's tethered to a bank of the weakest front side USB ports on my desktop computer. These ports are wired to a connector that inserts into some pins on the motherboard. They're not soldered like the back side ports are. This is a good test because I know that the ports in the motorhome's cab can at least double the amperage.
The 4 port hub has a 5A in-line fuse. If the smartphone is pulling 1.2A and the tablet does 0.7 to 0.8 on the same 2A power adapter, I should just be able to get another 2A adapter (from Verizon just to make sure it's the right one) and increase the in-line fuse to 7.5 or 10A. If anything comes through that the devices can't handle. those lighter power adapters have surge protection themselves and should be able to handle a problem if one occurs. It's protection if I'm wrong about going beyond 5A because the splitter might not be able to handle it and it might fail and smoke on me one day?
Every USB port and one lighter socket on the 4 way splitter, as well as the main socket on the expansion lighter power port was tested for amperage on my car and the motorhome. I'm not happy to announce that the tablet has a miniUSB v2.0 port. My smartphone has a v3.0 because it's power hungry. But so is the tablet. I'm getting 600 - 750mA going to it because of the bottle neck at the tablet's port and that's the best that I can do. The phone gets about 1200mA in the car and cab.
I just did a test another amperage test with my Samsung Galaxy Tab S2 (the tablet), this time with it's USB cable connected to it's stock AC/ DC converter and it was charging at least 1000mA. I'm not sure that USB 2.0 should be able to do that? Whatever that means, it means that it needs something more powerful in the motorhome's cab. I have a 200W inverter already that I could plug the AC/DC converter into if necessary. Those Web pages that I was consulting about the tablet's USB version could have been wrong. But I'm unable to find where on the device it's stated, or anything that could detect it.
I tested the 4 pin electrical connectors on my car and motorhome. While I don't know how to use the push button "range" feature. But I can confirm that there's some kind of signal coming through all 3 ports. So if there's any problems, it's on the utility hauling trailer. Well, since the deck splits when it folds for vertical stage, I learned my lesson with torquing the wires last time and used two pins on a three 4-flat connectors (to accommodate both sides and the trailer tongue). They make excellent diagnostic ports because I'm better able to locate the problem when one occurs and only have to replace that section's wire.