In becoming a Buckeye Trail Section Supervisor, there two questions one might ask. They are:
1) What are my duties?
2) What does this section really need???
2016/07/28
2016/07/24
Log 2016072401
With the Road Fork/ Whipple Work Week still in session, other BTA volunteers helped clear the Little Muskingum River Flats. Thanks to a family on the N bank, we were able to ford the mower across the river from their property and I helped secure access to that. What happened was that the crew was able to get it down the west descent. We ended up needing the ford to get it out of the forest.
Other than that, I started reinforcing the clockwise blazing in that area and getting it ready for others to navigate when the trail's surface isn't so apparent.
2016/07/20
Log 2016072002
In advance of the Road Fork/ Whipple Work Week, I've determined that the best stratedgy is to weed whack in various locations between the Whipple Section - Buckeye/ North Country Trail, Pts. 01 - 02 (10/2010 map & guide). This area has the C9 Trailhead, the section's high point and the intersection with the Greenview Trail that connects to the Scenic River Trail in the Marietta Unit of the Wayne National Forest in Independence Township of Washington County, closest to the Village of New Matamoras.
On the 22nd, I want to weed whack both apertures at Pt. 04. Once done, that will leave the Little Muskingum River Flats between Pts. 05 - 06 for the BTA's crew and myself. That area is over a mile of practically nothing but weeds and grass.
On the 22nd, I want to weed whack both apertures at Pt. 04. Once done, that will leave the Little Muskingum River Flats between Pts. 05 - 06 for the BTA's crew and myself. That area is over a mile of practically nothing but weeds and grass.
Log 2016072002
In advance of the Road Fork/ Whipple Work Week, I've determined that the best stratedgy is to weed whack in various locations between the Whipple Section - Buckeye/ North Country Trail, Pts. 01 - 02 (10/2010 map & guide). This area has the C9 Trailhead, the section's high point and the intersection with the Greenview Trail that connects to the Scenic River Trail in the Marietta Unit of the Wayne National Forest in Independence Township of Washington County, closest to the Village of New Matamoras.
On the 22nd, I want to weed whack both apertures at Pt. 04. Once done, that will leave the Little Muskingum River Flats between Pts. 05 - 06 for the BTA's crew and myself. That area is over a mile of practically nothing but weeds and grass.
On the 22nd, I want to weed whack both apertures at Pt. 04. Once done, that will leave the Little Muskingum River Flats between Pts. 05 - 06 for the BTA's crew and myself. That area is over a mile of practically nothing but weeds and grass.
Log 2016072002
In advance of the Road Fork/ Whipple Work Week, I've determined that the best stratedgy is to weed whack in various locations between the Whipple Section - Buckeye/ North Country Trail, Pts. 01 - 02 (10/2010 map & guide). This area has the C9 Trailhead, the section's high point and the intersection with the Greenview Trail that connects to the Scenic River Trail in the Marietta Unit of the Wayne National Forest in Independence Township of Washington County, closest to the Village of New Matamoras.
On the 22nd, I want to weed whack both apertures at Pt. 04. Once done, that will leave the Little Muskingum River Flats between Pts. 05 - 06 for the BTA's crew and myself. That area is over a mile of practically nothing but weeds and grass.
On the 22nd, I want to weed whack both apertures at Pt. 04. Once done, that will leave the Little Muskingum River Flats between Pts. 05 - 06 for the BTA's crew and myself. That area is over a mile of practically nothing but weeds and grass.
Log 2016072001
I just noticed that my pageviews surpassed 7,000 today and that the views per page have picked up. One thing that I can say is that when I don't post for days, or even a week, the pageviews definitely go down. And when I get back to posting, it usually takes some time to recover.
I'm getting ready for the 2016 Road Fork/ Whipple Work Week in Southeast Ohio starting on the 23rd. Today, I purchased a dolly to help get 6 gallon Aquatainers into the Little Muskingum River Flats for water resupply. I'm going to arrive a couple days early, so, I plan to trim the Whipple Section - Buckeye/ North Country National Scenic Trail, Pts. 01 - 02 first, maybe even the apertures at Pt. 04 (10/2010 map)? That way, the weed eaters from the BTA can concentrate on the flats between Pts. 05 & 06.
I'm getting ready for the 2016 Road Fork/ Whipple Work Week in Southeast Ohio starting on the 23rd. Today, I purchased a dolly to help get 6 gallon Aquatainers into the Little Muskingum River Flats for water resupply. I'm going to arrive a couple days early, so, I plan to trim the Whipple Section - Buckeye/ North Country National Scenic Trail, Pts. 01 - 02 first, maybe even the apertures at Pt. 04 (10/2010 map)? That way, the weed eaters from the BTA can concentrate on the flats between Pts. 05 & 06.
2016/07/17
Log 2016071702
I replaced the air, cabin air, oil filter and changed the motor oil today on my 2008 Chevy HHR LS at 173,313 miles. It burn a lot of oil this time. Shame on me, I haven't been checking the dip stick as often as I should.
2016/07/16
Log 2016071701
In voluntarism on a distance hiking trail, I have a much different disposition than some others. Whereas some might believe in the unfettered encouragement of any ideals, I prefer to narrow down and help those people refine them. I'm a realist. I believe that knowing the negative is like having military intelligence on a situation. And it's this information that ultimately can make my approach stronger.
2016/07/11
Log 2016071101
Well, don't call the motorhome "failed to launch" yet. I filled the tank with 87 and added fuel injector cleaner and it just passed two road tests today. The first was 52 minutes/ 29 miles in the plains and second was about 40 minutes/ 18 miles in the hills. I did smell a little bit of gasoline while driving, but it was brief. At speeds greater than 35MPH while going up a longer hill, the automatic transmission shifting to second gear doesn't do much until I give it more gas. My guess is that there really is a turbo charger on board because I don't think what happens next is first gear. But, there's still a something I'm concerned about in the idle.
Also, I tried to turn the auxiliary generator over with more than 1/4th a tank of fuel and it still wouldn't. So, I've eliminated that.
Also, I tried to turn the auxiliary generator over with more than 1/4th a tank of fuel and it still wouldn't. So, I've eliminated that.
Log 2016071101
Well, don't call the motorhome "failed to launch" yet. I filled the tank with 87 and added fuel injector cleaner and it just passed two road tests today. The first was 52 minutes/ 29 miles in the plains and second was about 40 minutes/ 18 miles in the hills. I did smell a little bit of gasoline while driving, but it was brief. At speeds greater than 35MPH while going up a longer hill, the automatic transmission shifting to second gear doesn't do much until I give it more gas. My guess is that there really is a turbo charger on board because I don't think what happens next is first gear. But, there's still a something I'm concerned about in the idle.
Also, I tried to turn the auxiliary generator over with more than 1/4th a tank of fuel and it still wouldn't. So, I've eliminated that.
Also, I tried to turn the auxiliary generator over with more than 1/4th a tank of fuel and it still wouldn't. So, I've eliminated that.
2016/07/10
Log 2016071002
The seat covers that I bought for the motorhome... I don't like them. They require that something passes through the crack of the seat to the other side. But the other side doesn't have a reciprocal crack to feed it through. Meanwhile, I was hoping for something with more padding that was a little more sporty feeling.
Well, I didn't get a mechanic today. Instead, I did some work with the multi meter. I found out that the reverse lights work with the same 1157 bulbs that the tail lights do. Their maybe a problem with a ground. That will have to be ascertained before I trace their wire back to the transmission. But the hardware inside of the lens cap looks good.
As I mentioned in my last log, I tested the positive terminals on the auxiliary battery and generator and found their voltages reading at 12V on both ends. That eliminated the possibility of being an unknown power drain. The auxiliary generator requires a voltage of at least 7V to start.
The generator wouldn't start today. That's a surprise because it usually likes to turn over for 15 seconds after the motorhome's been in motion. I once heard somewhere that generators won't start if the gas tank is only 1/4th full. Since it probably not very advanced to only insert a gas line so far in a tank, I assume that this is probably true on my motorhome, too? With my fuel gauge being broken and roughly estimating what it probably has in it now, it's in the relm of possibility that it is that low.
At the moment, I've been filling up every 200 miles and have been tracking it's MPG's using the amount of gallons on the gas pumps display. It's getting to be time for another fill-up. The MPG's have been going up lately and the latest data still doesn't account for the new fuel pump and filter. I might increase it to a 300 mile fill-up intervals, even in light of its continuing engine problem.
I mentioned in a previous article that I found the drain valve for the water reservoirs. That I most certainly did. After I pressed it down and left Storage B, I drove it to a relatives house, filled it up and it held water... well almost. There's still a slight leak in the valve, but it will certainly hold water for a few days. But it did add an extra bounce on the road today when trying to transport both containers full.
I don't know for sure what their capasities are. My guess it that they might combine for 30 gallons? Also, the electronic display above the range and the water pump works. This is good because now when I'm working on the motorhome at Storage C, I might now have a working toilet. And even though the containers might need cleaned, I might be able to boil my water? I've seen my range work before I bought the motorhome 66 days ago, but I haven't used it since.
When at a stop light today, it was if one cylinder almost wants to stall sometimes. But it doesn't always do this at every stop. However, in park at Storage C, I gave it a rev and it nearly shook the cab and sounded just like a V8 should. I'm use to 4-cylinder compact cars, so it was impressive.
Well, I didn't get a mechanic today. Instead, I did some work with the multi meter. I found out that the reverse lights work with the same 1157 bulbs that the tail lights do. Their maybe a problem with a ground. That will have to be ascertained before I trace their wire back to the transmission. But the hardware inside of the lens cap looks good.
As I mentioned in my last log, I tested the positive terminals on the auxiliary battery and generator and found their voltages reading at 12V on both ends. That eliminated the possibility of being an unknown power drain. The auxiliary generator requires a voltage of at least 7V to start.
The generator wouldn't start today. That's a surprise because it usually likes to turn over for 15 seconds after the motorhome's been in motion. I once heard somewhere that generators won't start if the gas tank is only 1/4th full. Since it probably not very advanced to only insert a gas line so far in a tank, I assume that this is probably true on my motorhome, too? With my fuel gauge being broken and roughly estimating what it probably has in it now, it's in the relm of possibility that it is that low.
At the moment, I've been filling up every 200 miles and have been tracking it's MPG's using the amount of gallons on the gas pumps display. It's getting to be time for another fill-up. The MPG's have been going up lately and the latest data still doesn't account for the new fuel pump and filter. I might increase it to a 300 mile fill-up intervals, even in light of its continuing engine problem.
I mentioned in a previous article that I found the drain valve for the water reservoirs. That I most certainly did. After I pressed it down and left Storage B, I drove it to a relatives house, filled it up and it held water... well almost. There's still a slight leak in the valve, but it will certainly hold water for a few days. But it did add an extra bounce on the road today when trying to transport both containers full.
I don't know for sure what their capasities are. My guess it that they might combine for 30 gallons? Also, the electronic display above the range and the water pump works. This is good because now when I'm working on the motorhome at Storage C, I might now have a working toilet. And even though the containers might need cleaned, I might be able to boil my water? I've seen my range work before I bought the motorhome 66 days ago, but I haven't used it since.
When at a stop light today, it was if one cylinder almost wants to stall sometimes. But it doesn't always do this at every stop. However, in park at Storage C, I gave it a rev and it nearly shook the cab and sounded just like a V8 should. I'm use to 4-cylinder compact cars, so it was impressive.
Log 2016071001
I just tested the the auxiliary batteries and the positive terminal on the auxiliary generator. There isn't a power drain as both read 12V.
2016/07/08
Log 2016070801
With the Air Injection Pipe for the right bank of the motorhome's engine still being 2 1/2 days away, not much has been going on here. I did go to the auto parts store and purchased an air, oil, cabin air filters, some high mileage synthetic motor oil and front brake hardware for my 2008 Chevy HHR LS. Because I don't have a garage, the weather tomorrow is looking like I'll have an opportunity to do that and organize some items in the motorhome, maybe even run a multimeter on the reverse lights.
I have somewhat of an idea why those haven't switched on. One theory is while the have circular stems that insert into a reciprocal slot, twist and lock, as far as I know, it shouldn't matter which way they are. But my brake light bulbs proved otherwise a few weeks ago. What if they're polarized and I have both of them inserted backwards?
The other theory is that I bought this motorhome with about 20 dead organ pipe wasp nests who had a particular fancy for the transmission. This shouldn't be, but what if the switch has an actual arm as a part of it's mechanism that and it's exposed. Sometimes, the organ pipe wasps like bolts and other things which protrude to build their nests on. Since the make their nests out of mud, and it's quite hard now, it could prevent a small metal arm of a switch from changing directions.
The one thing that I'm certain of is that I used a light up tester for every fuse in both blocks and they all work.
Now, my HHR's reverse switch has a connector at the transmission case, so it's switch has to be encased within. But with the motorhome being an '88 and my ignorance... who knows? (I don't)
I have somewhat of an idea why those haven't switched on. One theory is while the have circular stems that insert into a reciprocal slot, twist and lock, as far as I know, it shouldn't matter which way they are. But my brake light bulbs proved otherwise a few weeks ago. What if they're polarized and I have both of them inserted backwards?
The other theory is that I bought this motorhome with about 20 dead organ pipe wasp nests who had a particular fancy for the transmission. This shouldn't be, but what if the switch has an actual arm as a part of it's mechanism that and it's exposed. Sometimes, the organ pipe wasps like bolts and other things which protrude to build their nests on. Since the make their nests out of mud, and it's quite hard now, it could prevent a small metal arm of a switch from changing directions.
The one thing that I'm certain of is that I used a light up tester for every fuse in both blocks and they all work.
Now, my HHR's reverse switch has a connector at the transmission case, so it's switch has to be encased within. But with the motorhome being an '88 and my ignorance... who knows? (I don't)
Log 2016070801
With the Air Injection Pipe for the right bank of the motorhome's engine still being 2 1/2 days away, not much has been going on here. I did go to the auto parts store and purchased an air, oil, cabin air filters, some high mileage synthetic motor oil and front brake hardware for my 2008 Chevy HHR LS. Because I don't have a garage, the weather tomorrow is looking like I'll have an opportunity to do that and organize some items in the motorhome, maybe even run a multimeter on the reverse lights.
I have somewhat of an idea why those haven't switched on. One theory is while the have circular stems that insert into a reciprocal slot, twist and lock, as far as I know, it shouldn't matter which way they are. But my brake light bulbs proved otherwise a few weeks ago. What if they're polarized and I have both of them inserted backwards?
The other theory is that I bought this motorhome with about 20 dead organ pipe wasp nests who had a particular fancy for the transmission. This shouldn't be, but what if the switch has an actual arm as a part of it's mechanism that and it's exposed. Sometimes, the organ pipe wasps like bolts and other things which protrude to build their nests on. Since the make their nests out of mud, and it's quite hard now, it could prevent a small metal arm of a switch from changing directions.
The one thing that I'm certain of is that I used a light up tester for every fuse in both blocks and they all work.
Now, my HHR's reverse switch has a connector at the transmission case, so it's switch has to be encased within. But with the motorhome being an '88 and my ignorance... who knows? (I don't)
I have somewhat of an idea why those haven't switched on. One theory is while the have circular stems that insert into a reciprocal slot, twist and lock, as far as I know, it shouldn't matter which way they are. But my brake light bulbs proved otherwise a few weeks ago. What if they're polarized and I have both of them inserted backwards?
The other theory is that I bought this motorhome with about 20 dead organ pipe wasp nests who had a particular fancy for the transmission. This shouldn't be, but what if the switch has an actual arm as a part of it's mechanism that and it's exposed. Sometimes, the organ pipe wasps like bolts and other things which protrude to build their nests on. Since the make their nests out of mud, and it's quite hard now, it could prevent a small metal arm of a switch from changing directions.
The one thing that I'm certain of is that I used a light up tester for every fuse in both blocks and they all work.
Now, my HHR's reverse switch has a connector at the transmission case, so it's switch has to be encased within. But with the motorhome being an '88 and my ignorance... who knows? (I don't)
Log 2016060801
I'm convinced the old Air Pump Check Valve bolt that is seized within the Air Injection Pipe on my 1988 Itasca Sundancer 25ft motorhome engine [Ford Econoline 350 (E-350), 351 Windsor engine] isn't coming out. I tried to muscle it off, but I stopped because I realized that the Air Injection Pipe wasn't made of much and it would kink and contort. So, I purchased a new pipe for the right bank of the engine. It was either that, or to remove it, crank it's bolt like end down on a vice and try to force it with a breaker bar and maybe a pipe over it?
I've been leaving messages with one of the family mechanics and I think that by buying this pipe, I might anticipate his needs. Anyways, I've been many of my emissions parts need to be ordered. This pipe is on two day delivery. And when somebody comes around, I just wish to be on the road as soon as possible. But if I don't have a response by the 11th, I'm gonna try it myself.
This pipe splits into four and goes into the block above the header, spark plugs and injectors. It's got the same access problem as spark plug #1. So, I've already been considering removing the alternator anyways, so I guess I could do them both while I'm there?
- I'm scheduling the routine maintenance for my 2008 Chevy HHR for the 11th.
I've been leaving messages with one of the family mechanics and I think that by buying this pipe, I might anticipate his needs. Anyways, I've been many of my emissions parts need to be ordered. This pipe is on two day delivery. And when somebody comes around, I just wish to be on the road as soon as possible. But if I don't have a response by the 11th, I'm gonna try it myself.
This pipe splits into four and goes into the block above the header, spark plugs and injectors. It's got the same access problem as spark plug #1. So, I've already been considering removing the alternator anyways, so I guess I could do them both while I'm there?
- I'm scheduling the routine maintenance for my 2008 Chevy HHR for the 11th.
2016/07/04
Log 2016070402
I'm pretty sure that the mainboard on The Robot is bad. It's primary drive is tethered to it and it's corrupt. Now, the computer won't read one of the DVD RW drives that's connected like this to reinstall Windows. I believe that this system is suffering from a bad power supply and motherboard caused by excessive static electric shocks. I don't think I'll be able to replace them until December.
Log 2016060401
With the Air Pump Check Valve still scheduled to arrive at the auto parts store tomorrow afternoon, the forecast for the local area on Weatherbug has changed and now shows the 6th being a good day as opposed to waiting until the 10th.
2016/07/03
Log 2016070301
I took the photo of the mysterious two hoses to Advanced Auto Parts today and they tell me that they are definitely supposed to be connected. Apparently, I have a broken air pump check valve, which I wasn't in stock, but it's on order and should arrive on the afternoon of the 5th. The clerks at the store told me with this broken the way it is, that the cab's computer might not be registering the right pressure and it could be causing everything and anything (including my power loss). Since I know that the head gasket isn't cracked or blown and the exhaust doesn't have any color, both the fuel filter and pump are new, a vacuum tube or hose has to be the problem. Even under the best of chances, I usually account for minority odds and reserve myself somewhat. But given how the motorhome runs without the air breather hose being connected, I'm feeling good that this air pump check valve is it.
Afterwards, I went to the flea market and purchased some 20 inch windshield wipers for about $16 together. They were RainX that normally go for about $18 a piece, so I couldn't pass that up. What I was really looking for was a used shop jack. I need to have one of their levers on hand in case I have to dismount a tire. I have a breaker bar, but I'd rather have 5 feet of collapsible leverage over it just in case. I can get a bar from the home improvement store, but it won't transport as well if it's one piece. The bar from a shop jack separates in two at the middle and it's something that I can easily store in the motorhome somewhere.
From there, I drove to the nearest truck stop (30 miles away) to try and find some tire valve extenders to no avail. This truck stop isn't very large. With it only being 10:30am, I drove 73 miles to the nearest Camping World store and picked some up there. I now have a set that I can mount extensions to all four rear tire stems (duallies) and route them to the holes in the hub caps. Right now, I have to take them off in order to fill the tires with air.
So right now, it's just a matter of getting the air pump check valve on the 5th. Then installing it on the 6th. I still haven't got a call about a mechanic yet, so changing the spark plugs, wires, distributer and rotor could happen as late as the 10th due to the current weather forecast. I'm reading on-line that I should prepare for the spark plug replacement to be an all day affair. Even Haynes (in their repair manual) says that replacing the #1 spark plug is in an inconvenient location. Right now, I've got the manual in the house ready to study the removal of the alternator just in case.
Afterwards, I went to the flea market and purchased some 20 inch windshield wipers for about $16 together. They were RainX that normally go for about $18 a piece, so I couldn't pass that up. What I was really looking for was a used shop jack. I need to have one of their levers on hand in case I have to dismount a tire. I have a breaker bar, but I'd rather have 5 feet of collapsible leverage over it just in case. I can get a bar from the home improvement store, but it won't transport as well if it's one piece. The bar from a shop jack separates in two at the middle and it's something that I can easily store in the motorhome somewhere.
From there, I drove to the nearest truck stop (30 miles away) to try and find some tire valve extenders to no avail. This truck stop isn't very large. With it only being 10:30am, I drove 73 miles to the nearest Camping World store and picked some up there. I now have a set that I can mount extensions to all four rear tire stems (duallies) and route them to the holes in the hub caps. Right now, I have to take them off in order to fill the tires with air.
So right now, it's just a matter of getting the air pump check valve on the 5th. Then installing it on the 6th. I still haven't got a call about a mechanic yet, so changing the spark plugs, wires, distributer and rotor could happen as late as the 10th due to the current weather forecast. I'm reading on-line that I should prepare for the spark plug replacement to be an all day affair. Even Haynes (in their repair manual) says that replacing the #1 spark plug is in an inconvenient location. Right now, I've got the manual in the house ready to study the removal of the alternator just in case.
2016/07/01
Log 2016070102
Well, it just wasn't in the cards. The #1 sparkplug was just really hard to get to. It's behind the alternator and I don't have any experience servicing that or the belt system (yet). So it has to be accessed from underneath. I tried that, but I wasn't sure if I'd be able to get it in because I can't see the hole. I'm afraid that I'd get it out, but won't get the new one in. I called for a mechanic on this.
While I had external power, I took my mini shop vac and ducked out all the mice acorns and feces from the motorhome's two exterior storage compartments. There's some gear floating around the chassis that I can put away now.
This morning, I tried to mount my new 5 gallon Jerry can. But with the tire, ladder, license plate and bike rack in the way, it just wouldn't work. So, it will just have to go in my utility hauling trailer.
I used my new attachment tube to see if my water tank would hold. But it still leaked everything it had on to the ground.
Pictured below is this hose or pipe thats just inside the interior engine access that has been disconnected, but looks like it goes together. But for all I know, maybe they're supposed to be apart? You got me on this one. But on the drive back to the storage unit, I forgot to connect the hose to the air breather and the engine was a bit louder. Also, the temperature gauge was still in the normal zone, but it was going a bit high. The two hoses behind the interior access are about 5/8ths of and inch thick in outer diameter. This cab has plenty of hoses and if just the air breather one made it act up this easily, then the two suspect ones could be causing the engine to loose pressure to the end that I'm loosing power after 40 minutes?
Log 2016070101
There was a lot of traffic today, but I got my 1988 Ford Econoline 350 (E-350) out of storage. There were a couple of minor hick ups in when the engine slipped into a lower RPM either while, or before accelerating. But when I gave it more gas, I was able to bring it out if it.
I can now feel the engine's power. And I'm becoming more convinced that it might tow dolly my Chevy HHR
I attempted to put air in the tires, but I was only able to do 4 of 6 because I don't yet have valve extenders for my duallies. And I don't think that my portable jump box with a compressor had enough charge when I tried it.
Log 2016070101
I woke up early, but it was still about 40 minutes late. I planned to get my motorhome out of storage. It's parked on gravel, dirt and grass and I have to lift it to get to two, hard to get spark plugs. As per agreement with the storage facility owner, I can't lift it there anyways. So, I've got to get it to the house and put the front end up on the Rhino Ramps on a concrete surface. But because there's a leak in the over cab sleeping area, I have a tarp up there and it's not worth taking it down until the weather clears. It's 9:52am as I'm writing this and the hour by hour weather report states that this rain that I'm under now might not break until the 2pm block. Keep in mind that the hourly reports are volatile. They could change for the better, or the worse.
I have to get the spark plugs, wires, distributer cab, and rotor replaced so I'll have the guts to try and drive it on the road. If I still need to get one of the family mechanics to work on it, ascertaining it's current status is required. Otherwise, they might come out and find that nothing is wrong and blame it on my imagination (lol).
But I ran it on idle, a second time, for 40 minutes a couple days ago. And while there's a slight sign of hesitation in the engine, I'd say it's promising now. The replacement of everything that I just mentioned might just do the trick and I won't need a mechanic? But with the assessment of most risk, I am usually conservative about it and for all I know it's getting to my head with too much negativity?
Today, I purchased a new Sthil FS130 professional trimmer (weed eater/ weed whacker) with a 36.3cc engine displacement. I think that will be powerful enough for the mile of the Little Muskingum River flats on the Whipple Section - Buckeye/ North Country National Scenic Trail near Marietta. The salesman told me that it's designed to run for up to 8 hours every day. At that rate, it would probably take somewhere under 3 days for one person to clear that area.
But I'm 6'6 with a 36" inseam. Apparently, there's no way to extend a trimmer's stem. So, I'll probably have to wear steel toe boots because my stride is potentially longer than the distance to it's head. And I also forgot to get bicycle type side handles today.
I have to get the spark plugs, wires, distributer cab, and rotor replaced so I'll have the guts to try and drive it on the road. If I still need to get one of the family mechanics to work on it, ascertaining it's current status is required. Otherwise, they might come out and find that nothing is wrong and blame it on my imagination (lol).
But I ran it on idle, a second time, for 40 minutes a couple days ago. And while there's a slight sign of hesitation in the engine, I'd say it's promising now. The replacement of everything that I just mentioned might just do the trick and I won't need a mechanic? But with the assessment of most risk, I am usually conservative about it and for all I know it's getting to my head with too much negativity?
Today, I purchased a new Sthil FS130 professional trimmer (weed eater/ weed whacker) with a 36.3cc engine displacement. I think that will be powerful enough for the mile of the Little Muskingum River flats on the Whipple Section - Buckeye/ North Country National Scenic Trail near Marietta. The salesman told me that it's designed to run for up to 8 hours every day. At that rate, it would probably take somewhere under 3 days for one person to clear that area.
But I'm 6'6 with a 36" inseam. Apparently, there's no way to extend a trimmer's stem. So, I'll probably have to wear steel toe boots because my stride is potentially longer than the distance to it's head. And I also forgot to get bicycle type side handles today.
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