Battery Cables on the Rivi

These are the positive and negative side post battery cables on my 1990 Buick Riviera.  The digital odometer comes on and off, which could because of a bad ground.  I have to track it down and first I'm going to start with replacing the battery cables.  I'm unfamiliar with this 6 cable set up.  By the looks of it, it seems that both sides have 2, 4 & 6 gauge cables coming into this?  They are molded into a block at the top, which can not be serviced because it's solid with no way of getting into them.

As a somewhat inexperienced backyard, DIY mechanic, I'm not comfortable with what I'm seeing on line, so I plan to get larger bolts for the battery, get custom length cables and mount them each with three separate cables instead of in combination.  This car has electronic everything, including the digital odometer.

If I had to guess, I bet that these were last changed when a Buick dealership last supported the year of my Rivi?  If that's true, these battery cables could be 28 years old with up to 140,000 miles on them?  They look clean, but remember it's a Buick.  It's had 3 owners and 2 of them were elderly.  It took 28 years for it to get up to 62,000 miles.  At 126,000 miles as it is today, the underbody is still mostly spotless.  And the engine is rather clean.

 

1990 Buick Riviera: New Battery

    The battery in my 1990 Buick Rivera was defective and I got it exchanged on warranty at Advance Auto Parts in Woodsfield, Ohio.  The battery is made by DieHard.  The model is "silver" and the part number is 34/78-4.  It has both side and top posts.  The dash cluster comes on and off, but it seems to get the odometer mileage right, perhaps because it's saved to the ECU and it's still measuring it?  But for the times that it doesn't work, I have an odometer app on my smartphone, which I set according the last time the Rivi's odometer was on.  

    That's currently reading 126,132.1 miles.  But every time the odometer comes back on, there's a discrepancy between the two odometer mileages and the app has to be adjusted from time to time.  As a GPS person, this could be due to the device's inaccuracies?   For instance, when driving or walking, the device gets it's distances right.  But when at a stop, the accuracy on where it's reporting it's position fluctuates.  When it happens, it plots a new anchor and the track would look like a knot if this data was extracted and overlaid in something like Google Earth.  If the GPS were recording a track when the sky is overcast, the accuracy could be +/- 52ft from the present position at any given moment.

New Universal Power Distribution Block (Junction Block) Works

    I haven't been logging like I should.  We had a little trouble with getting the replacement power distribution block at Advance Auto Parts in Woodsfield, Ohio because of the Labor Day weekend coupled with a day off by the 3rd party regional distributer taking a day off after Labor Day which the staff at Advance didn't know about.  There was some concern about the part being so small that in transit, it could slide around these personal vehicles transporting and cause it to slip into a crack or get hidden under a seat somewhere.  So, the employees ordered another one from another distribution point just in case.  Whatever ended up happening, I received this power distribution block on time as revised.

    I replaced the stock power distribution block in my 1987 Chevrolet (Chevy) G20 Sportvan with a Carquest Premium BWD JBA1001,which is not exact, but I got the van started with it nonetheless.  The part is also known as a "junction block."  I had to cut the wires out of the old one because it's poles were rusted.  When I tried to loosen the nuts, the bolts just turned.  And the other side was behind some tough plastic that I wasn't able to cut with a razor to try and see if they had bolt heads in order to use a socket and a wrench to force the nuts to turn.  That's when I decided that this thing just has to go.

The old stock power distribution block (junction block, shown below)

The new power Carquest Premium BWD JBA1001 power distribution block (junction block, shown below)

    I like the new block.  I used 10 gauge wire and some 12-10 terminal eyelets to jump the 12V power coming from the battery/ alternator from bank to bank to make it all work.  The stock one did this by way of a small brass plate that was mounted at the bottom of the old block's bolts.  I'm glad that I waited for this part because I was orginally going to fabracate one myself using a plastic container for some midget wrenches that I recently bought.  But as mentioned in a previous log that I was concerned that the plastic wasn't the right grade.  And with 12V at anywhere between 30A to 80A, 300 - 960 watts being channeled through it, that the new block would melt, or worse yet... catch fire 😟.

    So, I turned the van on and it worked.  I then moved it forward about 3 feet so that it looks like it moved.  But on another project, I think I broke off a bolt and it slipped off inside the intake manifold?  And I might be taking that off and go looking for it?  But when I pressed the accelerator pedal, I didn't hear anything rattling, which to me suggests that there's something else wrong?

    I am a backyard mechanic.  This is Matty DIY.  I am not certified, nor have I ever worked in an automotive repair shop.  I thought that all of you out there watching these logs should know this.

Delayed on Labor Day

 It is Labor Day today and I've been waiting for my universal power distribution block from Advance Auto Parts in Woodsfield, Ohio and this is Day 5 now.  It's expected tomorrow and I will likely log whether I get it or not as it's expected to be at the store tomorrow.  But if it's not, I'm going to cancel the order and either try to get it from one of the local mechanics, or buy one on the Internet.

Delayed and Continued

 My new universal power distribution block won't be in for at least another 29 hours.

Anyways, I'm coming up with a strategy for deploying diatomaceous earth in my house to get rid of the fleas, mites, mold and possibly rodents?  I just bought 5 cheap area rugs so that I can step through the living room.

Delayed Another 3 Days

I checked in with the Advance Auto Parts in Woodsfield today about the universal power distribution block that I have on order.  It was supposed to come in two days ago, but has now been delayed another 3 because today is Saturday and Labor Day is Monday.

Still Waiting

 My universal power distribution block didn't come in today as they stated.  Apparently it's not coming from the distribution center in Wheeling?  It's coming from the one in Pittsburgh.  But Advance gets its products from the nearby distribution points via a 3rd party company where the contractors use personal vehicles to move the goods.  And my last two orders were so small that they could have fallen in the cracks of some seat where they couldn't be seen?

I've been looking at my records in regards to the projects on my van and car, but I haven't been making enough logs.  So, I have to go off the top of my head.  And according to that, in the past, there has been about two things that I have ordered that I should have gotten days after I made them where I've had to cancel them 14 days later because there was no end in sight.

Waiting Again

    Today, I went to work fabricating a new power distribution block out of a case for some midget wrenches.  But considering that the block potentially channels 12V/ 30 - 80A/ 300 - 900+ watts, I was concerned that the plastic case wasn't thick enough to handle the heat.  After all, it would be an 8 gauge cable attached to it getting unfused power directly from the battery and alternator.  Here in Woodsfield, I shop at Advance Auto Parts, Auto Parts Plus and NAPA.  None of them have a direct fit for what I'm trying to replace.  But I went back to Advance again today and determined that I should try to order a new universal one.  

    They sell a 12 port unit, but its out of stock.  It's on order and won't be in until 3pm tomorrow.  Usually I pay up front when my parts are on order, but this time I choose to wait.  I need to see if I can mount an 8 gauge cable to this new unit?  Only time will tell, but I need to start logging more than I have to try and keep a record of all the shipping delays.  So far, I just let time do it's thing and not really think twice of all the passing that it's been doing.

    I live in the most remote part of Ohio.  Monroe County has about 13,000 residents.  Woodsfield has about 2,300 and its the most populous incorporated area in the county.  I'm 19 miles south of anything even resembling a main supply line, but it will actually take 41 miles to get to a retailer that's on it.

New Starter

 I replaced the starter on my 1987 Chevrolet (Chevy) G20 Sportvan.  The last one got submerged when I was trying to ford a stream in the road.  For those of you who don't know, in rural areas, they don't have bridges and culverts over every stream.  Sometimes you have to drive through them.  But my van got unexpectedly deep and the van stalled out in the middle of the stream.  Then it too AAA about 3 hours to come out and tow it about 2 miles.  I can't really remember the details.  Either starter got submerged, or it took on a huge splash of water?  Ever since, it worked, but not well.

So it's now replaced.  But I tried to unbolt the wires on the power distribution block, but it's probably original and never been disturbed before?  When I tried to loosen the bolts, both sides loostened, then got ceased and then wouldn't tightened again.  After I installed the starter, I tried to start up the van, but it was dead.  So I got the multimeter on the battery terminals and it had a charge.  I then probed the power distribution block and found that my loose connections were the problem.  Now I know that I probably should replace it and the woman at the auto parts store said that my local hardware store might have one?

As for now, the mileage on the van hasn't changed.

Battery Cables Changed

I finally got the battery cables changed on my 1987 Chevrolet (Chevy) G20 Sportvan.  The positive cable has brackets that route it around the front of the engine bay before it gets to the starter.  I had to take special care near the starter in order to get the cable far enough away from the right exhaust manifold.  The 8 gauge positive cable going to what I think is the power distribution block was bolted into the old positive battery terminal clamp.  I never liked it there because it always gets in the way, especially when I have to remove the battery.  So, I got about 8ft of 8 gauge cable and ran it down to the positive battery terminal at the starter.

That's about it.  It took all afternoon and evening to do just about that.  The mileage on the odometer is 149,991.8 today.

Rear Shocks, Leaf Springs, Battery Cables

 I started jacking up the back end of my 1987 Chevrolet (Chevy) G20 Sportvan to start working on replacing the rear shocks and leaf springs.  What I found out is that my 3 ton jack stands aren't tall enough if I set them to meet the van on the frame, which of course, it higher up than the axle that I normally do.  So, I got it into my head that I should get some concrete blocks from the hardware store.

At that point, I decided that I would start the van, drive to the auto parts store where I can do a back yard alignment on the way to the hardware store.  At that point, one click forward of the key and the fuel pump would come on.  But when I went to crank the engine, I lost all voltage.  Now, I'm finally at the point to where I'm replacing the battery cables.

I'm replacing them with 13 feet of 2 gauge wires.  It must have run about $64 for those?  Then what we think is the power distribution block, I have a new one of those coming in.  This is a tee consisting of 2 poles that multiple 10 and 8 gauge wires get bolted to.  The the positive wire to the fuse block comes off of that tee.  One of the wires mounted to this so called block, the other end was bolted into the top of my positive battery cable.  Well, it's a short 8 gauge cable and I'm tired of all this getting in the way when I'm working under the hood, particularly when I have to take the battery out.  So instead of the new 8 gauge wire going to the new positive battery terminal, I'm going to wire it all the way down to the starter instead.

    And it's possible that the starter finally went bad.  The last time that I had it tested, it had a hard time passing.

Tables Sanitized and Batteries Replaced at Legion Hall

Legion Mowed, Weed Whacked and Grass Clumps Removed

There is a painting class scheduled at the Legion today, so I mowed the lawn, weed whacked and moved most of the clumps into the run that I spun down by the low spot months ago.

Master Cylinder Holding Brake Fluid

 It's been about 6 hours since I last posted about the new master cylinder being installed in my 1987 Chevrolet (Chevy) G20 Sportvan.  I checked the level again and the master cylinder is holding the same amount of brake fluid.

Master Cylinder and SLA Battery Charging

 I bench bled the new master cylinder for the my 1987 Chevrolet (Chevy) G20 Sportvan.  I hooked it up to the lines to the proportioning valve.  I know that the front lines are getting fluid because the lines coming from it going to the front calipers were leaking fluid.  I just replaced those lines and used compression fittings.  When I replaced the upper, lower ball joints, front brake calipers and front brake lines, I did it all in one big project.  But I left three of the compression fittings loose, so I tightened all four today.

This was my first time bench bleeding.  When they say put it in a vice, I put the stem of the master cylinder in there and locked it down.  But a video that I saw said not to do that because it could cause problems inside the stem.  Instead, the vice should be locked on to the bolt hole flange.  I corrected that and then did the bench bleed, but I'll be monitoring the level for the next few hours to see if there are any changes?

There is no change to the vehicle's odometer mileage since the last log.

I have The Wilderness Chapter of the Buckeye Trail Association's sealed lead acid battery for our walk behind, DR field brush mower downstairs on a trickle charge.  Apparently the battery can only handle 2 amps?  I could have swore that I jumped it with the van before?  And last time, I tried to use the 10 amp automotive battery charger on it, but for some reason that didn't work?  Today I plugged the trickle charger in for the first time and the "bad battery" light came on.  But when I unplugged the charger and plugged it back in, it didn't light up.

Batteries Charged and Charging

 The battery on my 1990 Buick Riviera is charged. And I started charging the one on my 1987 Chevrolet (Chevy) G20 Sportvan.  Both have been sitting for a while.

The Rivi might prove to be something of a wild goose chase?  It only has a 4in lift and I was getting a new GPS track for the east side of the Archers Fork Loop in the Marietta Unit of The Wayne (National Forest).  I was on foot, but I needed some place to lock my bicycle up to.  I did that on the north side of the loop on Irish Run Rd/ Township Rd 58.  But the road was much rougher than I remembered and the Rivi bottomed out hard a couple of times.  And the road was so narrow that there wasn't anywhere to turn around (often times, I can do it on the road itself).

I got the bike to the site and locked up on on the side of the road, then got back in the Rivi and drove it to the south side of the south side of the loop and parked on federal property on Wards Rd (Bell Cemetery Rd) on the south side.  From there, I hiked the east side of the loop, got on the bike and rode back to the car.  When I got in, I started up the Rivi and drove off.

About 10 miles later, the car stalled and wouldn't turn back on.  I was out of cell signal, but luckily somebody was outside right where I broke down.  I used their telephone, called AAA and got it towed home.  Now, I think I'm going to have to do diagnostics on everything I can possibly think of?  And pretty much, it would probably all entail things that I've never done before.  I think I have to jack up the back end and see if there's a box near the gas tank?  What if it was crushed?

The Rivi's digital odometer has a short.  Sometimes it comes on and... much of the time, it doesn't.  I think that one of the first things I'm going to do is hunt down that ground?  And I'm probably going to replace the bolts in the positive and grounding tee's?  But my van has what you might call a fusible link?  There's a ton of wires grounded to the lower side of the 305/ 5.0L engine behind the right exhaust manifold.  I see myself checking every one of it's numerous relays with a volt, or ohm meter.  I remember with my 1989 Chevy Beretta GTU that I had a bad one and it was located underneath the passenger's side door trim.  My public library at the time had access to an automotive database that put me on the right path to those. 

With the van, I botched the replacement of the right lower ball joint.  And I think the new left upper ball joint isn't greasing like it should?  I've never done these before and I used sheer "mechanical aptitude" to do this job (I didn't consult the repair manual).  But I took a Sawzall with a Diablo metal cutting blade to sever the ball joint studs, then I just disconnected the tie rod ends and removed the steering knuckle.  I said to hell with grinding and chiseling off the stock rivets on the upper ball joints in the wheel wells and just removed the upper control arms and did that with it on a vice.  But the installation of the new ball joints is very picky about proper procedure and I already botched two of them.

In my G20 van, I realized that I can pop the ball joints with the tie rods dismounted if I used a 1.5 ton scissor jack.  There's just enough space to use it upside down.  I cranked it with the stock bar and those things just popped right out.  I'm going to wait on doing anything more on the van until at least a couple days from now.  In the meantime, I'll begin what is likely to be a "wild goose chase" on the Rivi.

Ball Joints 20220523

 I got the all of the ball joints on my 1987 Chevrolet (Chevy) G20 Sportvan replaced and mounted.  But I'm not happy with the upper left one because I don't think that the grease injected into the boot?  As for the front brake calipers and hoses, I'm going to wait for another day.  Right now, I'm just happy that all four wheels are mounted and on the ground.

Ball Joints 20220520

I've been working on my 1987 Chevrolet (Chevy) G20 Sportvan lately.  I'm busy replacing the upper and lower ball joints.  I took a Sawzall with Diablo metal cutting blades to the ball joint stems and disconnected the tie rod to remove the steering knuckle.  Then I used the chisel bit on my air hammer and angle grinder to get the rivets off of the upper ball joint.  But I used a screw driver and hand chisel to pry the uppers off of the upper control arm while that was secured to a vice and that wasn't a good idea because it warped the front a bit.  It may or may not matter much?  If it does, I may still be able to doctor up the upper control arms at the upper ball joints with JB Steel Stick?

But I've never done ball joints before and since I'm replacing both sides at the same time, the sequence of events  is getting me.  On one upper and one lower, I've been getting the boots pinched and torn.  I got another upper, but I'm out of money for a new lower now.  It's been slow work, but I'm eager to get the front side of the van back down with all four wheels on concrete.  I don't have a garage and I'm sure it's not making my nice neighborhood look good having it all pulled apart for weeks on end?

I was using a ball joint puller kit from the auto parts store, but I just now discovered that I could have gotten them free by removing the tie rod from the steering knuckle and using a scissor jack rated for 1.5 tons upside down to get the lower one to pop out.

The nothing on the left side is mounted yet.  But on the right side, I used a ratcheting strap with one end wrapped around the steering knuckle while the other end was hooked to my car in order to line up the bottom ball joint hole with a straightened stem on the new lower ball joint.  If the steering knuckle isn't just right and the stem turns, it seems that it could cause the boot not to mount and pressurize right when it sits into the lower control arm?

Hydrostatic Pressure

I got a 12" concrete drill bit and 5 cans of DAP Max Fill spray foam.  I drilled into the floor and except for one hole, it was nothing remarkable.  But there was considerable space in the lower NW corner of Compartment SE at the floor.  And then there's a huge cavity under the under porch hatch door in Compartment SW.

The ladder one and possibly others are going to require a supply of polyurethane foam that greatly exceeds the cans that I bought today.

I filled seep holes in Compartment NE.  One of them looked like a rodent tried to burrow there because it was wide.  

New Map Sensor and Code Diagnostic

I installed a new Manifold Absolute Pressure sensor today on my 1987 Chevrolet G20 Sportvan with a 5.7L/ 350 at 149,926.9 miles on the odometer.  Also I ran a code scanner in it and other than the self test, nothing else came of it.