If the the new, temporarily rerouted ground, or positive signal makes makes the gas gauge rise, I'll know that the stock wiring wiring works. If it doesn't, I'll need to trace and test it heading towards the cab. The same goes for the transfer pump. My method will by-pass it's fuse and relay, so if it's good, it should just come on.
In all actuality, I could get the motorhome down towards 21.5 gallons of gas if the my car's 16.5 gallon tank was near empty. Since I drive it more, that's not too much to ask. And at that point, my 5 gallon jerry can is already empty now.
- According to the most recent weather forecast and the fact that my RV caulking dries in 24 hours, it looks like I won't get to replace the motorhome's roof vents until Tuesday. About 6 running lights and the overhead cab also need to be caulked at that time.
- Two plates for the otter box that fits my Samsung Note 3 smartphone are on order. I just hope that their belt clips don't swivel without locking. Usually when you turn them, they click from one setting to another. But having swivel without locking on my waist down trail is no good. It's asking for it to get snagged on something.
So today, I purchased both a 1/2 and 3/8th drive pneumatic impact guns as well as an air wrench. Then I just ordered a set of metric and SAE standard length pneumatic sockets. The bolts on the motorhome's gas tank are rather clean, but I'm not taking any chances.
I've owned a 4ft tall air compressor for years now. And when I was working on my car with it at the time, I was borrowing tools for it. So, this kit has been a long time coming.
I got the top lights done in just enough time to drive back across town so I could secure the tarp to the overhead cab sleeping area before the storage facility closed. I probably covered that over cab area at lightning speed because I was cutting it close.
With rain in the forcast this week, I wasn't able to caulk the new marker lights. But I didn't know this at first, but the plugs on the back of the new orange ones weren't in the same places as their predecessors. Their predecessors used a four screw mounting system where the new ones were only a two. Being unprepared for this, I used a sharper point Phillips screwdriver and hammered the new holes in with my palm. It worked.
Anyways that saves the only tube of RV caulking that I purchased from Camping World (which is 50 miles away) to do the new marker lights and roof vents after I install them. I can caulk those when it's not raining, then use something recycled plastic grocery bags and Gorilla Tape to keep them dry while their curing for 24 hours. I know that it is illegal to drive without any of the marker lights when it rains or at night. But I don't know so much about the day and I don't want to tempt it either.
When I purchased the motorhome on May 5th, I took it on the freeway and noticed that the slightest gust of wind was causing me to overcompensate for it. Today, I took it on under similar conditions and found that it handled fine. Before I was suspecting that the suspension might have been the problem. Last night, I saw that it would probably cost about $500 just to have the rear leaf springs replaced. Mechanically, it's suspension is something I could easily repair.
The difference between this time and last is tire pressure. When the previous owner told me that he checked the levels and filled up anything that was low, either he didn't read the sidewalls, or didn't didn't do them at all? I filled them up from 50psi. It's LT215/85/R16 tires are rated for 80psi, which I filled them about a month or so ago. It drove on the freeway much better today.
- Prior to this entry, my Treeman's Adventures & Volunteerism Logs exceeded 8,000 pageviews.
Today, I drove to Camping World and purchased two new roof vents. One of them has a fan for the bathroom. For that job, I purchased some caulking, too. I also got orange front and red rear marker lights for the ones that are bad or damaged.
I think I found the wires to the transfer pump and sending unit on my motorhome inside of 1/2" black conduit. It's in the front, routed over that top corner and does not come back out the other side. It contains 3 wires. Two of them the same guage and a black that's about a 12.
So, I drove it for a bit and burned about 6 gallons of gasoline. I estimate that there 31 gallons left. I don't have the facility to store a 55 gallon drum, even empty. So if I drop the tank, it's all got to get burned.
But just in case I don't have to replace it, I've invented a new diagnostic proceedure for the wiring using a fused lighter plug in a portable battery jump box. This way I can get 12V DC while controlling the amperage and satisfying Olm's Law.
This part is hard to get because of the age and size tank that it has. The tank is bordered by steel beams all the way around. The other locations another one could install in are occupied by the motorhome's componentry. Therefore, the replacement has to be the same width and length or less, but I could spare some height. With all that said, there's old wiring all around and a found could be bad for all I know. So, if the current pump can work, I'll pursue that avenue first.
While I was underneath, I spotted a wire to the trailer hitch lighting. It was in a plastic Y branch connector and the wiring at it was unshielded and fraying... barely holding on. This could be my reverse light that's not getting any power?
Since, I'm getting more sockets (the motorhome uses SAE), I also purchased two socket rails. They're something that wouldn't fit in the plastic boxes, nor could I justify their weight them past. With the HHR pulling up to 1,000lbs and having up to 500lbs in the cab, expenditures in weight had to be well justified.
But I had the trailer because I'm not just a hiker, but a maintainer and I planned on being down trail for extended periods of time where there might be places that AAA might not tow me out of. For some of you, you might just be able to use your "wagon like" vehicle alone. And if not, then a roof top luggage carrier might be the way to go. Mine is fixed to aftermarket roof bars that I got from Walmart. They were $29 at the time and use mesh straps with hook plates to secure to the body of my car under each doors rubber shielding. I've been running this setup for 6 years and have only had water leakage once. That was probably because I dismounted too much shielding? These days, it doesn't leak at all.
I spent the rest of the day editing my Personal Section Supervisor's Page. I explained how Washington County was a part of the Mid-Ohio Valley and the Parkersburg - Marietta - Vienna Metropolitan Statistical Area.
The Robot has a 4 hard disk system that is on two controller cards, one being the motherboard. If they were on just one, I believe that I would be able to create something that would view them all as one hard disk and spread the load of the files evenly amongst them. But since their on two, I'm doing the distribution manually to keep the system running faster. Basically drive C is only used for the operating system and a number of essential applications. This is so if needed, the system could run with the other three unplugged and still boot. That's necessary because hard disk drives fail and chances are it won't be the main one.
The Robot is a custom built computer system that's taken a lot of static shock in the last 6 years. When that happens, you can expect hardware failure to occur some time.
I've been in communication with a prospective Whipple Section - Buckeye/ North Country Trail hiker the past two days. We have a collapsed trail in between Pts. 02 - 03 that's unsafe to pass that BTA doesn't have a trail alert for. The problem in getting to Pt. 03 is Big Run Rd that off of Archer's Fork Rd/ C14 in Independence Township of Washington County.
Coming from the North Country/ Buckeye Trailhead at C9 and Archer's Fork Rd, Big Run Rd is 2.3 miles NW. As Archer's Fork (body of water) is along the west and south side of the road, Big Run will have the only concrete bridge crossing it, but it's unsigned. Once across, there are immediately what looks three drives. The one to the south is Big Run Rd, but it may not look like one. And the hikers aren't able to see it enter the treeline from the bridge, so they may think that it's private property. It's not. They should follow it parallel to the south treeline and when they do, they'll see it enter the woods. Once thing to note is that there's not much on Big Run Rd. It's traffic consists of the immediate resident, NFS naturalists, NFS and BTA maintainers and perhaps one oil well that I'm not sure is even working?
That turn from Archer's Fork Rd to Big Run Rd is even tricky for me. I've never done it without a GPS. With that in mind, the hiker might want to proceed W on County Rd 9/ C9 and pick up where the the trail is temporarily on that road.
Looks like I'll have to go with USGS Topo's now. They're better for hiking. Meanwhile, I discovered that I can download maps in my Google Maps app that covers all the routes, but they expire in one month. I can also use it to view a trail's track. If this pertains to topographic maps then, Locus might be on it's way out?
The Circuit Hike program is for those that want to hike in a group for a day, or weekend at a time and eventually claim the entire circuit one day. Road Fork has the best on-road on the circuit because by Buckeye standards, some feel that it might as well be off-road. I've heard it likened to a "towpath." I can't remember it very well, but I think that some of the roads are forested with patches of grass in them. The section's on-road usually takes place on top of a ridge between two highways. It's rough on my Chevy HHR to drive it.
The Road Fork Section is a part of The Wilderness Loop. And I wanted to scout West Virginia east of this section for trail promotion reasons. But I have somethings I have to attend to in NE Ohio on the 13th, so I'll have to leave the area tomorrow.
On the Buckeye Trail, blazes are forbidden on the Little Miami State Scenic Trail, as well as parts of the Ohio & Erie Canal Towpath Trail, one of the smaller off-road segments that are S of the City of Defiance and perhaps a few more areas. If blazes are found on one of these, it could be because the property is owned by another agency (like a land conservancy)? Or they were left over from when Buckeye was permitted to pass through there, but something like a towpath wasn't formally build there yet. For instance, the Buckeye Trail was permitted to pass on the land where the Little Miami State Scenic Trail is today before the paved multi-use trail was built there.
Meanwhile, I got a look at one of the Buckeye Trail's back drops for booths, tables and displays. They really want me to use theirs for uniformity and branding purposes, but that won't work in the triad that I'm setting up because at these type events, the BT/ NCT and ADT need to be promoted at the same time. So, I plan to build something very similar to it to suit our circumstances. And it will have to be approved by the Buckeye Trail Association, and maybe the American Discovery Trail Society as well.
This is the electrical Y branch connector part that I mentioned in my previous log that I was going to test the motorhome's transfer pump wires with. I bought it at O'Reilly Autoparts in a box of about 10 or so.
To clairify, I'm going to bypass the ground to another location and see of that works. If not, I'm going to run 12V power from my portable battery jump box with an in line fuse to give the pump an external power source. With that and the bypassed ground, if that doesn't work, then the pump and sender are bad.
But I got to thinking even more... what if the positive wire is broken, perhaps inside it's shielding somewhere? Well, if I use my portable battery jump box, I could a lighter plug into it and get a 12v positive and negative wires out of it. Wire the negative to a ground with a gator clip then place an in-line fuse on the postive wire on it's way to the component. Now the fuse box is probably only going to have one fuse for both the high pressure and the transfer fuel pump. I figure that to keep it on the safe side, I could start with the smallest fuse in the in-line first and work my way up to whatever's in the block. If the temporary ground and the positive don't work, I'll know for sure that the unit is bad and then I'll go about dropping the fuel tank and possibly removing it.
I'm not getting a signal from the sending unit on my gas gauge either. Hopefully this might "spark" some life into it. It's all in the interest of doing the least invasive/ least costly thing first.
If I drop the tank, I will then know for sure if it's a combination sending unit/ transfer pump. And would the transfer pump be electric, or mechanical? After having it down, I should have enough information to go back to Summit Racing in-person and perhaps order a new one?
With replacing the high pressure pump recently and only getting it to go from 40 to 90 minutes without hesitating uphills, Then sending it into the shop and getting a Code 95 stating that the transfer pump has a bad ground, I'm pretty convinced that the transfer pump is it. And thinking that, if that's out and the gas gauge is too, that it's very likely that this is electric and a combination unit (without even looking at it).
With the transfer pump on, it will be time to determine if the motorhome can dolly my car. The motorhome has a V8 351 Windsor motor. The length of the motorhome is 25ft and it's weight is 11,600lbs. It has a Class III hitch. The combined weight of the dolly, car and gear is 4,100lbs. Without a manual, I'm unable to determine what's it's towing capacity is and it's door sticker doesn't state it's Gross Combined Weight Rating GCWR. The weight rating sticker on the hitch is missing and the operators manual doesn't have it.
There's a nuclear option to all of this. I'm a spend a holic. And saving up for the motorhome and everything I've done so far to it, I'm not ready to give it up. The nuclear option is to buy another Ford Econoline cutaway like this, use it's sender, then get a storage unit temporarily, chop it up and sell it on ebay. That will be saving the engine and transmission for myself of course. My current motorhome, it just has a 1988 70,000 engine in it. It still has a good under body and I'd prefer to have those rebuilt.
The air pump check valve has separated from the right bank smog tube. Some of these valves look like they had a pipe extending it that mounted to the smog tube. The current tube has a hollow bolt ceased to it. And I can't torque it out, or I'll twist up the smog tube. I got to thinking that I could mount a replacement valve that I currently have and use pipe from the home improvement store, then JB Weld it to the bolt and seal it up?
I use gNotes on my Android based smartphone to record everything about my motorhome. Including tires sizes, their age, light bulbs, size and number of exterior cabinet locks. gas tank dimensions, clearances, where all the keys go, what size are the marker lights, etc... I just keep adding things to it.