The engine oil in my 1987 Chevrolet G20 Sportvan was changed today at 144,702 miles on the odometer. I switched the engine oil from 5W-30 to 10W-30 today.
Also, I installed a cuff on the right bank exhaust tube in front of the rear axle and moved the resonator pipe so that it was further away from a nearby brake line.
It appears that the transmission fluid is low?
Showing posts with label 1987 Chevrolet G20 Sportvan. Show all posts
Showing posts with label 1987 Chevrolet G20 Sportvan. Show all posts
2020/05/06
Radiator Burped
I filled the radiator in my 1987 Chevy G-20 Sportvan with Car Quest All Vehicle 50/50 antifreeze at 144,528.0 miles on the odometer and I burped the system. Before, the van's engine was heating up rapidly. Now, it appears that the engine temperature is stable.
2019/10/11
Two Lines Run, New Shock
I snaked the oil pressure gauge and tachometer positive lines through the firewall of my 1987 Chevrolet G20 van. I know that I don't have enough tube for the oil pressure gauge. I'm going to wait for daylight to determine what bolt the water pressure gauge needs to mount to the engine.
I replaced one rear shock, but it didn't improve the van's disposition. But the bolts came off easy. I had a cheater bar standing by and didn't need it. It looks like I'll be replacing the rear leaf springs next?
I replaced one rear shock, but it didn't improve the van's disposition. But the bolts came off easy. I had a cheater bar standing by and didn't need it. It looks like I'll be replacing the rear leaf springs next?
2019/10/01
Gauge Lights Work
I finished wiring my voltmeter, oil pressure, water temperature and tachometer to the power system of my 1987 Chevy G20 Sportvan. I tested the gauge lights, I got the power from the headlight switch to work, but the only thing that I got wrong was I didn't do it to the dimer switch. Oh well. I'm happy. I did turn the key to the accessory position and got a low voltage reading. The instructions for it come with troubleshooting tips. I didn't want to turn the engine over yet because I still have to install the lines for three of the gauges to the engine.
2019/09/29
1987 Chevy G20 Van Ignition Wire
On my 1987 Chevrolet G20 Sportvan, the positive wire that only comes on when the ignition key is turned to accessory, or on is yellow in color and I found mine under the steering column. I had to remove the dashboard underside to get to it.
2019/09/26
Bloody Fingers
A couple of cuts on my left fingers aren't too bad. Something I was working on with my 1987 Chevy G20 Sportvan took a little chunk out of my left thumb. Yesterday, I was boring out holes for a piece to adapt the new front passenger's side seat belt. Since the drill bit was somewhat wider, my 1/2in drill ripped the brackets out of my baby vice a couple times. Both times, I made the mistake of trying to hold the brackets with my hand while powering the drill. Needless to say, I wasn't strong enough and I probably won't do that again?
I just tested the positive wires that I created for the new gauges. I tested them to the new negative that I ran. The positive coming from the light switch works. But one that I did from a tan wire running from the ignition doesn't. Both used electrical IDC connectors, but I have had trouble with them using 16 gauge wires before.
I don't remember if I stated this before, but I mounted 6in x 9in speaker boxes to the ceiling right behind the front driver and passenger's side heads. So far, they're working. But I'd rather drive it some to see if the connections inside the box will wiggle out of contact? But I like the boxes that I have there. The ones in the rear of the van were mounted before I bought it. The front ones have a slightly different shape and in the future, I could use metal brackets to bolt them into a vertical position in back corners of the van. I figure that the front ones that I have now could be mounted in the rear and present less of an obstruction than the Walmart bought ones. I use the van for cargo.
I just tested the positive wires that I created for the new gauges. I tested them to the new negative that I ran. The positive coming from the light switch works. But one that I did from a tan wire running from the ignition doesn't. Both used electrical IDC connectors, but I have had trouble with them using 16 gauge wires before.
I don't remember if I stated this before, but I mounted 6in x 9in speaker boxes to the ceiling right behind the front driver and passenger's side heads. So far, they're working. But I'd rather drive it some to see if the connections inside the box will wiggle out of contact? But I like the boxes that I have there. The ones in the rear of the van were mounted before I bought it. The front ones have a slightly different shape and in the future, I could use metal brackets to bolt them into a vertical position in back corners of the van. I figure that the front ones that I have now could be mounted in the rear and present less of an obstruction than the Walmart bought ones. I use the van for cargo.
2019/09/25
The Latest Episode
It feels like it was a bit of a battle today. What I'm working on isn't really about priority. It's more like finishing up projects that I started so I don't have too many things going on at once. My 1987 Chevy G20 Sportvan's interior was stripped down by the previous owner. Currently, it only has two seats in it. I think that the passengers side came from a Dodge? It was missing a seatbelt, so I installed an aftermarket one today. It took some smoked drill bits and some retrofitting, but I got it done. Adventurer's Project has people that could volunteer on trail maintenance, but they've been dependent on my wheels.
In December, January and February, I was in rehabilitation for a muscular lumbar injury that I got from hiking 5 years ago. In February, the power in my motorhome that I'm living in went out. I forgot to turn off the water and my hot water tank ruptured. During this episode, I got in my car and went to a motel for a couple nights.
As soon as I did that, the RPM's in my former 2008 Chevy HHR started jumping. I thought it was from a clogged catalytic convert and kept driving on it. In late April, I had to clutch replaced because it failed on the road. In May, I replaced the oil valve gasket. In June, I replaced the entire exhaust and the RPM's got a little better, but kept jumping. I then had it towed to the shop where they diagnosed that the timing chain broke. Apparently when that happens in engines like this, the engine is toast. In the middle of July, the BTA had it's work week in this area and I got a ride for it. In late July, I purchased my current 1987 Chevy G20 Sportvan.
I was refitting it through the month of August and September, but I managed to get some trail work done. However last week, my automatic transmission locked up on me. If I had to guess and had the stamina, I might be able to work on that in 2 days? However, there is a possibility that the transmission was weak to begin with and it needs a replacement. One of my neighbors told me that he knows of somebody who might have a van like mine with a working transmission in it? He's a good guy with a truck and I might be able to ask him to help me and get it?
But right now, the seat belt was a good start. I also ran a power wire from the light switch and ignition for four gauges that I need to install. If I'm feeling up to it tomorrow, I plan on installing the various gauges to their appropriate places. I have a voltmeter, oil pressure, engine temperature and tachometer. I've never done them before. So, testing and hunting things down and being new at it is going to take more time for me than another backyard mechanic.
The van has vacuum leaks that really ought to get found before it goes on the road again. I have to spray brake parts cleaner to find it. And the rear shocks need replaced and I have them. At that point, I can then go after the transmission. I've never serviced a transmission before, so all that newness is going to take some time.
So, for all those who might be thinking that they'd like to join me on trail maintenance on Saturday, September 28th, I have to cancel. And I can not reschedule until this transmission situation is remedied.
In December, January and February, I was in rehabilitation for a muscular lumbar injury that I got from hiking 5 years ago. In February, the power in my motorhome that I'm living in went out. I forgot to turn off the water and my hot water tank ruptured. During this episode, I got in my car and went to a motel for a couple nights.
As soon as I did that, the RPM's in my former 2008 Chevy HHR started jumping. I thought it was from a clogged catalytic convert and kept driving on it. In late April, I had to clutch replaced because it failed on the road. In May, I replaced the oil valve gasket. In June, I replaced the entire exhaust and the RPM's got a little better, but kept jumping. I then had it towed to the shop where they diagnosed that the timing chain broke. Apparently when that happens in engines like this, the engine is toast. In the middle of July, the BTA had it's work week in this area and I got a ride for it. In late July, I purchased my current 1987 Chevy G20 Sportvan.
I was refitting it through the month of August and September, but I managed to get some trail work done. However last week, my automatic transmission locked up on me. If I had to guess and had the stamina, I might be able to work on that in 2 days? However, there is a possibility that the transmission was weak to begin with and it needs a replacement. One of my neighbors told me that he knows of somebody who might have a van like mine with a working transmission in it? He's a good guy with a truck and I might be able to ask him to help me and get it?
But right now, the seat belt was a good start. I also ran a power wire from the light switch and ignition for four gauges that I need to install. If I'm feeling up to it tomorrow, I plan on installing the various gauges to their appropriate places. I have a voltmeter, oil pressure, engine temperature and tachometer. I've never done them before. So, testing and hunting things down and being new at it is going to take more time for me than another backyard mechanic.
The van has vacuum leaks that really ought to get found before it goes on the road again. I have to spray brake parts cleaner to find it. And the rear shocks need replaced and I have them. At that point, I can then go after the transmission. I've never serviced a transmission before, so all that newness is going to take some time.
So, for all those who might be thinking that they'd like to join me on trail maintenance on Saturday, September 28th, I have to cancel. And I can not reschedule until this transmission situation is remedied.
2019/09/12
Van Seats In Storage
My 1987 Chevrolet G20 Sportvan was over loaded inside. And the 7 van seats that I got about a week ago put it over the top. I drove an hour away to my storage unit and just threw them on top of everything there. I brought the van home with the fuel gauge just shy of the "E" line. I didn't need to pour the 5 gallons in the Jerry can into it.
2019/09/08
Headlamp Relay, the Weather and American Discovery Trail Inspection
I'll have to lift the battery out of my 1987 Chevrolet G20 Sportvan in order to see what's under it. I have yet to find a relay for the head and bright lights. Right now, both sides are not responding.
I live closer to the east side of The Wilderness Loop of the Buckeye Trail (North Country partially concurrent). But there's reasons why I configure my Weatherbug app on my Android based smartphone to monitor the weather in four locations. Two of those are on-road. Regardless, if I get a weather alert, know of a hiker being out here and I have the means, I'll go out and get them.
But the other reason is internal. It tells me what I can do as far as everything else is concerned. Pruning can be done on any day except lightning. Blazing can be done on days except lightning, but only if the blazing surface starts out dry and has a window where it hues before it rains. It's unknown if we can bench the tread if the ground is saturated? And we can run the DR Mower, weed whackers and chain saws on just about any day, except those with lightning.
But the most finicky tasks are ones having to do with GPS'ing locations. These require days when the skies are Partly Sunny or better. Right now, the northeast corner of The Wilderness Loop are predicted to have one suitable day, but the rest are not. However, go 30 miles south to the south side and I have a streak of 3 suitable days.
Two days ago, I was in the Marietta area. I had to get some new 6in x 9in speaker boxes, which were at an audio/ video shop in Parkersburg. I was considering going to the Sternwheel Festival in Marietta, but I wasn't comfortable parking my van there with everything that I was hauling in the van. So, I made a call from behind the line (a football aphorism) and performed my annual inspection on the American Discovery Trail - Ohio/Kentucky, Segment 01. I volunteer with the American Discovery Trail Society, too.
It's a 33 mile long, on-road segment from the West Virginia line at Belpre of Washington County to Marion Township of Morgan County, Ohio. I never liked it much until then. Apparently, I was seeing it during the wrong time of the year. For some reason, it's pretty now? But it can be a bear to park on.
Getting back to the weather, I have an excellent day for tomorrow. But I have several loads of laundry that needs to get done. The van really needs me to unload some of the cargo. And to go to the south side, I really need to camp out there and my tent needs repairs. But I got some groceries today. It's always best when I have my cereal because I'm on the road faster.
I live closer to the east side of The Wilderness Loop of the Buckeye Trail (North Country partially concurrent). But there's reasons why I configure my Weatherbug app on my Android based smartphone to monitor the weather in four locations. Two of those are on-road. Regardless, if I get a weather alert, know of a hiker being out here and I have the means, I'll go out and get them.
But the other reason is internal. It tells me what I can do as far as everything else is concerned. Pruning can be done on any day except lightning. Blazing can be done on days except lightning, but only if the blazing surface starts out dry and has a window where it hues before it rains. It's unknown if we can bench the tread if the ground is saturated? And we can run the DR Mower, weed whackers and chain saws on just about any day, except those with lightning.
But the most finicky tasks are ones having to do with GPS'ing locations. These require days when the skies are Partly Sunny or better. Right now, the northeast corner of The Wilderness Loop are predicted to have one suitable day, but the rest are not. However, go 30 miles south to the south side and I have a streak of 3 suitable days.
Two days ago, I was in the Marietta area. I had to get some new 6in x 9in speaker boxes, which were at an audio/ video shop in Parkersburg. I was considering going to the Sternwheel Festival in Marietta, but I wasn't comfortable parking my van there with everything that I was hauling in the van. So, I made a call from behind the line (a football aphorism) and performed my annual inspection on the American Discovery Trail - Ohio/Kentucky, Segment 01. I volunteer with the American Discovery Trail Society, too.
It's a 33 mile long, on-road segment from the West Virginia line at Belpre of Washington County to Marion Township of Morgan County, Ohio. I never liked it much until then. Apparently, I was seeing it during the wrong time of the year. For some reason, it's pretty now? But it can be a bear to park on.
Getting back to the weather, I have an excellent day for tomorrow. But I have several loads of laundry that needs to get done. The van really needs me to unload some of the cargo. And to go to the south side, I really need to camp out there and my tent needs repairs. But I got some groceries today. It's always best when I have my cereal because I'm on the road faster.
2019/08/30
Stereo Wired
When I had the stereo head unit installed in my former 2008 Chevy HHR, I bought it from Best Buy and had Geek Squad install it. They said that they had to dismount the entire dashboard to get to it and I can tell you that at the time, that was way over my head. But the HHR had existing stock wiring for it.
My stripped down 1987 Chevy G20 Sportvan didn't. It has an aftermarket fuse block and the radio fuse wasn't wired to it. I ended up using a device that I inserted into my "Gauges" fuse slot. It's kind of a like a SIM converter on a computer that back in the day, could turn a mother board with a 4MB total RAM slots and make it an 8MB. This thing had two female fuse slots. One was for the 20 amp fuse for the gauges and the other was for a postive wire extending out if it. The second one could only hold a up to a 10 amp fuse, which was just enough for the stereo.
I got it wired like I mentioned before. The gauges fuse port in the block was the only one that was wired to the ignition. That became a problem later on. But I got the stereo and rear speakers wired up. I didn't do the fronts because taking apart the dashboard entailed dismounting the speedometer cable and I wasn't prepared to do that. At this point, I believe that it has to be dismounted from the transmission. Normally when it comes to doing something I don't know, I study the Haynes manual the night before I do something like this. That way I get familiar with it in theory before application.
I wanted to move on to the aftermarket gauges. But they too need a power source that is switched to the ignition. Had that fuse been able to handle more than 10 amps, I could have done everything on the same positive wire. But now, I have two choices. I don't know the make and model of the aftermarket fuse block. So, I can either unbolt it and go exploring, or I can attach a switch to it, which means that I would have had to bore another hole in the dashboard that I wasn't prepared to do.
So, I stopped for the day. I don't know when I'll get back to it? The right rear speaker box has a short in its speaker wire inputs.
The stereo wiring was a bunch to stuff in. I had to make sure that it missed the seals for the interior engine hump cover, otherwise known as a "dog house."
My stripped down 1987 Chevy G20 Sportvan didn't. It has an aftermarket fuse block and the radio fuse wasn't wired to it. I ended up using a device that I inserted into my "Gauges" fuse slot. It's kind of a like a SIM converter on a computer that back in the day, could turn a mother board with a 4MB total RAM slots and make it an 8MB. This thing had two female fuse slots. One was for the 20 amp fuse for the gauges and the other was for a postive wire extending out if it. The second one could only hold a up to a 10 amp fuse, which was just enough for the stereo.
I got it wired like I mentioned before. The gauges fuse port in the block was the only one that was wired to the ignition. That became a problem later on. But I got the stereo and rear speakers wired up. I didn't do the fronts because taking apart the dashboard entailed dismounting the speedometer cable and I wasn't prepared to do that. At this point, I believe that it has to be dismounted from the transmission. Normally when it comes to doing something I don't know, I study the Haynes manual the night before I do something like this. That way I get familiar with it in theory before application.
I wanted to move on to the aftermarket gauges. But they too need a power source that is switched to the ignition. Had that fuse been able to handle more than 10 amps, I could have done everything on the same positive wire. But now, I have two choices. I don't know the make and model of the aftermarket fuse block. So, I can either unbolt it and go exploring, or I can attach a switch to it, which means that I would have had to bore another hole in the dashboard that I wasn't prepared to do.
So, I stopped for the day. I don't know when I'll get back to it? The right rear speaker box has a short in its speaker wire inputs.
The stereo wiring was a bunch to stuff in. I had to make sure that it missed the seals for the interior engine hump cover, otherwise known as a "dog house."
2019/08/29
Rear Speaker Wires Routed
I got the rear speaker wire routed in my 1987 Chevy G20 Sportvan. My interior is stripped down to the metal, so I drilled holes in the upper sides and on one of the roof supports for zip ties. I had to reroute my original plan so that the speaker wires didn't run parallel with the interior light and a custom 12V primary wire. Those power wires run along the left side, while the speakers had to go right. The trick now is to figure out how to route the wires in the passenger's side foot well to avoid the primary wire supplying power to my custom, dedicated front 12V power port? Under the dash, I'll have to keep the wires somewhat slack to install the head unit and get it back out should I need to?
Tomorrow is a big day. The primary 12V wire is already routed under the head unit, so that's where I'm going to get the head units "always on" power for it's clock since that wire goes directly to the battery. I'm not sure if I'll have to fuse it?
Now, I have a fuse splitter for the block. I don't have to go behind it and find out what's what? I'm going to run primary power for 5 components off that one line. I have a stereo head unit, tachometer, oil pressure, temperature gauges and a voltmeter. All the components will need to be hooked to the light switch. Then a few grounds will have to be run.
I'm looking forward to installing the water gauge and tachometer. I have to drill quite a hole to get the temperature sensor out of the firewall.
Tomorrow is a big day. The primary 12V wire is already routed under the head unit, so that's where I'm going to get the head units "always on" power for it's clock since that wire goes directly to the battery. I'm not sure if I'll have to fuse it?
Now, I have a fuse splitter for the block. I don't have to go behind it and find out what's what? I'm going to run primary power for 5 components off that one line. I have a stereo head unit, tachometer, oil pressure, temperature gauges and a voltmeter. All the components will need to be hooked to the light switch. Then a few grounds will have to be run.
I'm looking forward to installing the water gauge and tachometer. I have to drill quite a hole to get the temperature sensor out of the firewall.
2019/08/24
Work on Van Today
I ran the rear right positive speaker wire, but not the left yet. I'm waiting to take off the dog house (interior engine hump cover) on my 1987 Chevy G20 Sportvan. I have four gauges, three of which and possibly two 12 gauge positive wires have to get through the firewall. At present, I'm not sure how to disassemble the steering column to get to the ignition positive wire? The dog house has to come off because there's access to the bottom of the stereo when it's off.
When I opened the lid of one of my bins in the cargo hold, a couple of sharp pointed screws fell to the floor. The floor is rusting and has holes. So, now I'm thinking of pulling them back out and vacuuming the floor after all?
I've been reading through a forum regarding stereo speaker wire. That positive 12 gauge positive that I want to run to the tailgate for the tire inflator to reach the rear wheels will have to run along a different channel, or they risk creating noise on the speakers due to cross talk.
I was working with the new passenger's side seat belt today. Turns out that I'm going to have to use the stock Chevy seat belt holder and mount. It's just a bar that extents from the corner of the roof and left side body. The problem is that I was able to cut the replacement's upper loop to get the new belt out. But modifying the stock holder is going to require some serious sawzall time because it's thick and automotive grade. My plan is to cut a slit right down the middle of the stock holder's loop to try and squeeze the new seat belt through it.
I have no idea what the back of a fuse box looks like? Guess I'll find out tomorrow? I'm running a custom 12V power port to my 3 way splitter so that it definitely has enough power to handle multiple 3.1A devices. I did this on my former Chevy HHR and on my motorhome and I like it a lot. Now that rear port is going to get everything that tire inflator can handle.
I definitely like working on cars in the evenings. Here in Far SE Ohio, it gets sweaty hot during the day in the summer. I'm thinking about changing it's oil soon because what's in there is new, but it's full of Seafoam. I didn't change the oil when the engine was still warm. That could have more easily removed any engine shavings. But in guessing the engine temp, it could be somewhat risky. It's a gloves on and long sleeve shirt procedure. What needs to go back in it is 4 quarts of 10W-30 (I think???) and some Lucas Oil additive.
When I opened the lid of one of my bins in the cargo hold, a couple of sharp pointed screws fell to the floor. The floor is rusting and has holes. So, now I'm thinking of pulling them back out and vacuuming the floor after all?
I've been reading through a forum regarding stereo speaker wire. That positive 12 gauge positive that I want to run to the tailgate for the tire inflator to reach the rear wheels will have to run along a different channel, or they risk creating noise on the speakers due to cross talk.
I was working with the new passenger's side seat belt today. Turns out that I'm going to have to use the stock Chevy seat belt holder and mount. It's just a bar that extents from the corner of the roof and left side body. The problem is that I was able to cut the replacement's upper loop to get the new belt out. But modifying the stock holder is going to require some serious sawzall time because it's thick and automotive grade. My plan is to cut a slit right down the middle of the stock holder's loop to try and squeeze the new seat belt through it.
I have no idea what the back of a fuse box looks like? Guess I'll find out tomorrow? I'm running a custom 12V power port to my 3 way splitter so that it definitely has enough power to handle multiple 3.1A devices. I did this on my former Chevy HHR and on my motorhome and I like it a lot. Now that rear port is going to get everything that tire inflator can handle.
I definitely like working on cars in the evenings. Here in Far SE Ohio, it gets sweaty hot during the day in the summer. I'm thinking about changing it's oil soon because what's in there is new, but it's full of Seafoam. I didn't change the oil when the engine was still warm. That could have more easily removed any engine shavings. But in guessing the engine temp, it could be somewhat risky. It's a gloves on and long sleeve shirt procedure. What needs to go back in it is 4 quarts of 10W-30 (I think???) and some Lucas Oil additive.
2019/08/19
Items to Install and Storage
I have a big day later with my 1987 Chevrolet G20 Sportvan. There's a whole list of things to do and the only thing that concerns the engine is hooking up my voltmeter, engine temperature, oil pressure gauges and the tachometer. I have a 90° angler attachment for my drill and I already have a spot to slip the hose and electrical through the firewall.
My bright lights aren't working right now. And I have to test every fuse and check every relay. I can install my 6in x 9in rear speakers and run their wires, but as for the 4in x 5in front speakers and the head unit, I might wait for that? This van has been stripped down and the previous owner offered to help with the head unit.
It's an "absolute must" that I get my cigarette lighters working. This is because if I get a puncture in a tire on some gravel road, I have the patch kit, but without 12V power, I can't use the inflation. So, these power ports must get done. And I might have to wire a port in the tailgate to make sure that
With my big bins in the back of the van, one of those is my gear bay. One of the things that it holds is surplus items that I buy in bulk, such as shampoo, laundry detergent and cotton swabs. The motorhome doesn't store these as well. So the gear bay is my resupply point.
I've got all the items in the motorhome that I can think of that need to be transferred there in a pile. This week, I'm expecting my Haynes Small Engine Repair Manual and the passengers side seat belt and buckle in the mail.
People now and then use to take notice of my keys. I have two sets. One for the motorhome and the other for the van, trailer and all the locks that go with it. Well, I put them on a diet and committed everything that no longer has anything to go with it, or my keys for up north on to one ring and put them into my safe. They're much slimmer now. I had some carabiners on the van's set that I moved to my surplus set. As a hiker and maintainer, there's always a need for carabiners.
It's good to get this stuff out of the way. This winter I had the overhead bunk stuffed with just about everything I could think of so that my electric heaters wouldn't have to heat that area. Now, I just got the chance to get them out of the way.
My storage unit is about an hour south of here. I got it when I was living out that way. And the reason why I kept it was that it can be difficult to get one of these and the south of the trail that I cover is much closer to it. So, I would just have to stop by there when I was in the neighborhood. But this past year, with my former Chevy HHR needing so much work and being virtually undriveable, it delayed this until now.
But since the HHR has a new owner and he has big plans for it, when I empty out the storage items out of the van at the storage unit, I can get him the HHR's back seats and one head rest that I took out of it. He's got another set of 4 rims for the van that he said he'll give me and I'll have winter tires mounted on them. I plan to pretty much hibernate then anyways, but I still have medical appointments that I might have to attend to about an hour away?
My bright lights aren't working right now. And I have to test every fuse and check every relay. I can install my 6in x 9in rear speakers and run their wires, but as for the 4in x 5in front speakers and the head unit, I might wait for that? This van has been stripped down and the previous owner offered to help with the head unit.
It's an "absolute must" that I get my cigarette lighters working. This is because if I get a puncture in a tire on some gravel road, I have the patch kit, but without 12V power, I can't use the inflation. So, these power ports must get done. And I might have to wire a port in the tailgate to make sure that
With my big bins in the back of the van, one of those is my gear bay. One of the things that it holds is surplus items that I buy in bulk, such as shampoo, laundry detergent and cotton swabs. The motorhome doesn't store these as well. So the gear bay is my resupply point.
I've got all the items in the motorhome that I can think of that need to be transferred there in a pile. This week, I'm expecting my Haynes Small Engine Repair Manual and the passengers side seat belt and buckle in the mail.
People now and then use to take notice of my keys. I have two sets. One for the motorhome and the other for the van, trailer and all the locks that go with it. Well, I put them on a diet and committed everything that no longer has anything to go with it, or my keys for up north on to one ring and put them into my safe. They're much slimmer now. I had some carabiners on the van's set that I moved to my surplus set. As a hiker and maintainer, there's always a need for carabiners.
It's good to get this stuff out of the way. This winter I had the overhead bunk stuffed with just about everything I could think of so that my electric heaters wouldn't have to heat that area. Now, I just got the chance to get them out of the way.
My storage unit is about an hour south of here. I got it when I was living out that way. And the reason why I kept it was that it can be difficult to get one of these and the south of the trail that I cover is much closer to it. So, I would just have to stop by there when I was in the neighborhood. But this past year, with my former Chevy HHR needing so much work and being virtually undriveable, it delayed this until now.
But since the HHR has a new owner and he has big plans for it, when I empty out the storage items out of the van at the storage unit, I can get him the HHR's back seats and one head rest that I took out of it. He's got another set of 4 rims for the van that he said he'll give me and I'll have winter tires mounted on them. I plan to pretty much hibernate then anyways, but I still have medical appointments that I might have to attend to about an hour away?
2019/08/14
Geo Photo Catalog, A Rough Year, Whole Circuit Challenge
The Geo Photo Catalog is a project for the Road Fork and Whipple Sections that I have already underway. It involves taking pictures with my smartphone and camera app's locators turned on. What does is it embeds the coordinates of where the picture was taken. The idea, is to take them at every blaze, or where they're supposed to be according to the BTA's maintenance guide lines. Because of the weakness of a smartphone's GPS antenna, they have to be taken when the sky is partly sunny or better. And on Weatherbug, there's a difference between "party cloudy" and "partly sunny."
It's multifaceted program as it's purposes are:
1) provide the Buckeye Trail Association with a visual record of the trail
2) provide pictures for a Vacant Segment Showcase
3) to provide Adventurer's Project and the chapter it may become photos to use on it's website and social media, particularly in the winter.
Adventurer's Project covers the Road Fork and Whipple Sections of the Buckeye Trail (North Country concurrent) in Far SE Ohio, or generally east of I-77 and south of I-70. Those sections are off-road at Caldwell Lake and in the Marietta Unit of the Wayne National Forest.
It's been a rough year. Where to start??? The project had about 5 presentations and the public only showed up at one of them. We have two volunteers ready to go, but with both there's some scheduling difficulties. We might have another?
I live in my motorhome in Woodsfield. In December, I started getting physical therapy on my back. That concluded in February, but my abdominals still need tensioned. What I've learned is that I'm not in as good of condition as I once thought and now I'm unable to make the 13 mile one way trip to the nearest off-road portion by way of bicycle because the hills in this county are too much to handle at this time.
The electric warming hose that I was using for water to my motorhome failed and my hot water tank ruptured in a cold snap in February. I had to get a motel for a couple nights, but this is when my car started acting up, The RPM's were jumping.
In April, I finally saved up to get my car's clutch replaced. I then added two bottles of "Guaranteed to Pass" in two tanks of gasoline to try and get the catalytic converters clean.. After the first one, it started to jump less. But part way through the second, I wasn't satisfied it was doing enough.
Sometime afterwards, I started to replace the entire exhaust because in the year prior, a mechanic told me that I was leaking oil and as it was dripping down the back side of the engine, that it could probably clog one of the catalytic converters? Since the header pipe at the engine was bad and it was all practically welded together by this point anyways, I felt it necessitated a full replacement from "stem to stern."
It didn't alleviate the RPM's jumping. I changed the oil valve gasket along with the exhaust, but that didn't do anything. There's got to be something else? Because then it wouldn't start.
I had it hauled to Hilltop Auto Services just outside of Woodsfield to perform a diagnostic. They came back and said that the timing chain had gone and as a result, the valves were warped and the pistons were probably gone as well?
At that point, there was somebody in town who wanted to make my HHR into a jacked up, four wheel drive "Baby Grave Digger." I paid for the tow truck from Hilltop to his house because it was a heck of a lot better than sending it 30 miles north to a junk yard. But on the other hand, he had a old Chevy conversion van that I bought for $800. It use to be a passenger van, but it's interior is stripped down. I only have two seats in it. And the passenger's side needs a seat belt, which is on order.
So, we're back up and running, but there's a few experiments to run with a rear wheel drive only, top heavy vehicle in The Wayne. Most of its parking opportunities occur in a grass strip on the side of narrow, gravel roads. But there's another reason to run these experiments...
The Buckeye Trail Association's board voted in the affirmative to have a "challenge" over the whole circuit in one weekend. Basically, the BTA needs to be able to park cars every 3 miles or less in order to have hikers cover such distances over the 1,454 mile circuit almost virtually simultaneously at once. Some of those vehicles could be RWD only's? I have to come up with the contingency procedures in case it rains and their wheels sink?
Right now, I have 600 - 800lbs over my rear axle. But I'll also be experimenting with a new arrangement of parking boards and a come-a-long, or hand winch. With FWD, I would just place a board under each tire when I park in these places. When I leave, I have about 2 seconds of thrust, the rest is momentum and that better get me out.
But with a rear wheel drive, the drive wheels are further back. So the experiment is to see if four boards placed perpendicular in front of the boards being parked on would be enough traction to make it out? My conversion van has one disadvantage that the HHR didn't and that's it's wheelbase. The HHR could come out of a road side parking place forward, or back, depending on what was more advantageous? The conversion van's wheel base is likely to be not as generous? It probably has to come out in the forward direction only because of how tight the treeline is to the edge of these grass strips? Without knowing more, that's merely speculation at this point.
We have different grass strips. Some are up hill, down hill and some are on flats. We have to anticipate that these vehicles could be parked over night? If so, will front reflectors be needed? And if so, what color?
It's multifaceted program as it's purposes are:
1) provide the Buckeye Trail Association with a visual record of the trail
2) provide pictures for a Vacant Segment Showcase
3) to provide Adventurer's Project and the chapter it may become photos to use on it's website and social media, particularly in the winter.
Adventurer's Project covers the Road Fork and Whipple Sections of the Buckeye Trail (North Country concurrent) in Far SE Ohio, or generally east of I-77 and south of I-70. Those sections are off-road at Caldwell Lake and in the Marietta Unit of the Wayne National Forest.
It's been a rough year. Where to start??? The project had about 5 presentations and the public only showed up at one of them. We have two volunteers ready to go, but with both there's some scheduling difficulties. We might have another?
I live in my motorhome in Woodsfield. In December, I started getting physical therapy on my back. That concluded in February, but my abdominals still need tensioned. What I've learned is that I'm not in as good of condition as I once thought and now I'm unable to make the 13 mile one way trip to the nearest off-road portion by way of bicycle because the hills in this county are too much to handle at this time.
The electric warming hose that I was using for water to my motorhome failed and my hot water tank ruptured in a cold snap in February. I had to get a motel for a couple nights, but this is when my car started acting up, The RPM's were jumping.
In April, I finally saved up to get my car's clutch replaced. I then added two bottles of "Guaranteed to Pass" in two tanks of gasoline to try and get the catalytic converters clean.. After the first one, it started to jump less. But part way through the second, I wasn't satisfied it was doing enough.
Sometime afterwards, I started to replace the entire exhaust because in the year prior, a mechanic told me that I was leaking oil and as it was dripping down the back side of the engine, that it could probably clog one of the catalytic converters? Since the header pipe at the engine was bad and it was all practically welded together by this point anyways, I felt it necessitated a full replacement from "stem to stern."
It didn't alleviate the RPM's jumping. I changed the oil valve gasket along with the exhaust, but that didn't do anything. There's got to be something else? Because then it wouldn't start.
I had it hauled to Hilltop Auto Services just outside of Woodsfield to perform a diagnostic. They came back and said that the timing chain had gone and as a result, the valves were warped and the pistons were probably gone as well?
At that point, there was somebody in town who wanted to make my HHR into a jacked up, four wheel drive "Baby Grave Digger." I paid for the tow truck from Hilltop to his house because it was a heck of a lot better than sending it 30 miles north to a junk yard. But on the other hand, he had a old Chevy conversion van that I bought for $800. It use to be a passenger van, but it's interior is stripped down. I only have two seats in it. And the passenger's side needs a seat belt, which is on order.
So, we're back up and running, but there's a few experiments to run with a rear wheel drive only, top heavy vehicle in The Wayne. Most of its parking opportunities occur in a grass strip on the side of narrow, gravel roads. But there's another reason to run these experiments...
The Buckeye Trail Association's board voted in the affirmative to have a "challenge" over the whole circuit in one weekend. Basically, the BTA needs to be able to park cars every 3 miles or less in order to have hikers cover such distances over the 1,454 mile circuit almost virtually simultaneously at once. Some of those vehicles could be RWD only's? I have to come up with the contingency procedures in case it rains and their wheels sink?
Right now, I have 600 - 800lbs over my rear axle. But I'll also be experimenting with a new arrangement of parking boards and a come-a-long, or hand winch. With FWD, I would just place a board under each tire when I park in these places. When I leave, I have about 2 seconds of thrust, the rest is momentum and that better get me out.
But with a rear wheel drive, the drive wheels are further back. So the experiment is to see if four boards placed perpendicular in front of the boards being parked on would be enough traction to make it out? My conversion van has one disadvantage that the HHR didn't and that's it's wheelbase. The HHR could come out of a road side parking place forward, or back, depending on what was more advantageous? The conversion van's wheel base is likely to be not as generous? It probably has to come out in the forward direction only because of how tight the treeline is to the edge of these grass strips? Without knowing more, that's merely speculation at this point.
We have different grass strips. Some are up hill, down hill and some are on flats. We have to anticipate that these vehicles could be parked over night? If so, will front reflectors be needed? And if so, what color?
Oil Filter and Plug
Yesterday, I drained the oil in my 1987 Chevy G20 Sportvan. Because I had the wrong oil filter and the auto parts store was going to open until the next day, I kept the oil plug and filter off and let it drain overnight. It hit the dew point last night, so I kept them off throughout the day to try and evaporate anything that may have condensed inside the engine block.
Today, I got the right filter. I installed that and put the plug back in it's hole. I'm going to wait until I mount the new starter tomorrow before I replace the motor oil.
I normally do my work in a gravel driveway. Either my 3 ton jack stands were digging into the soil hard core, or those black struts on it were about to snap? When I was working on it the day before, I had my 3-1/2 ton shop jack up against the bottom of the conversion van just in case.
When I did the oil, I got under the van from the front, which there's a platform under the engine that extends to the front wheels. I jacked it up to get past that. But what I didn't realize is that if I approached it from the sides, I don't have any running foot boards under the doors, so just like my motorhome, I can just get under the van without jacking it up.
Today, I got the right filter. I installed that and put the plug back in it's hole. I'm going to wait until I mount the new starter tomorrow before I replace the motor oil.
I normally do my work in a gravel driveway. Either my 3 ton jack stands were digging into the soil hard core, or those black struts on it were about to snap? When I was working on it the day before, I had my 3-1/2 ton shop jack up against the bottom of the conversion van just in case.
When I did the oil, I got under the van from the front, which there's a platform under the engine that extends to the front wheels. I jacked it up to get past that. But what I didn't realize is that if I approached it from the sides, I don't have any running foot boards under the doors, so just like my motorhome, I can just get under the van without jacking it up.
2019/08/06
Work on the Conversion Van
As of now, my 1987 Chevy G20 Sportvan has 141,134 miles on the odometer.
- Windshield wipers replaced
- new tires from Walmart mounted about 50 miles ago. They are Dextero DH2 P225/75R15's on the front two wheels only
- Fuel cap replaced
- drivers side mirror replaced
- pivoting blindspot mirrors mounted
- reverse and rear marker light bulbs replaced. Right rear marker light still does not respond.
- cargo hold was loaded to about 800lbs. Its either over the rear axle, or immediately in front of it.
2019/07/31
Autoparts In
I got more auto parts. I think I spent over $500 on them? Turns out that I'll have to "burb" the radiator. But the procedure requires knowing the engine temperature so it doesn't go critical. My 1987 Chevy Van only has a dashboard light that I'm not sure if it's hooked up right? So, I've got gauges for the battery, engine temperature, oil pressure and a tachometer. I'll be filling the radiator to the top with water.
2019/07/30
Radiator Cap
Today, I got a radiator cap for my 1987 Chevrolet (Chevy) G20 Sportvan. It's really low on antifreeze and I'm convinced that it needs to be filled from the cap instead of the reservoir first. But my Haynes repair manual, which is coming in the next 36 hours. I might as well not start the oil change until then.
2019/07/29
Radiator Cap
My 1987 Chevy G20 Sportvan doesn't have a window washer reservoir. And probably not a motor either. That's why it didn't activate on the way back from the BTA board retreat. Lucky for me, the reservoir is cheap. I have to get a new radiator cap because I believe that I'm going to have to warp the one that's on there to get it off?
Subscribe to:
Posts (Atom)