I got the rear speaker wire routed in my 1987 Chevy G20 Sportvan. My interior is stripped down to the metal, so I drilled holes in the upper sides and on one of the roof supports for zip ties. I had to reroute my original plan so that the speaker wires didn't run parallel with the interior light and a custom 12V primary wire. Those power wires run along the left side, while the speakers had to go right. The trick now is to figure out how to route the wires in the passenger's side foot well to avoid the primary wire supplying power to my custom, dedicated front 12V power port? Under the dash, I'll have to keep the wires somewhat slack to install the head unit and get it back out should I need to?
Tomorrow is a big day. The primary 12V wire is already routed under the head unit, so that's where I'm going to get the head units "always on" power for it's clock since that wire goes directly to the battery. I'm not sure if I'll have to fuse it?
Now, I have a fuse splitter for the block. I don't have to go behind it and find out what's what? I'm going to run primary power for 5 components off that one line. I have a stereo head unit, tachometer, oil pressure, temperature gauges and a voltmeter. All the components will need to be hooked to the light switch. Then a few grounds will have to be run.
I'm looking forward to installing the water gauge and tachometer. I have to drill quite a hole to get the temperature sensor out of the firewall.
Showing posts with label speaker wire. Show all posts
Showing posts with label speaker wire. Show all posts
2019/08/29
2019/08/24
Work on Van Today
I ran the rear right positive speaker wire, but not the left yet. I'm waiting to take off the dog house (interior engine hump cover) on my 1987 Chevy G20 Sportvan. I have four gauges, three of which and possibly two 12 gauge positive wires have to get through the firewall. At present, I'm not sure how to disassemble the steering column to get to the ignition positive wire? The dog house has to come off because there's access to the bottom of the stereo when it's off.
When I opened the lid of one of my bins in the cargo hold, a couple of sharp pointed screws fell to the floor. The floor is rusting and has holes. So, now I'm thinking of pulling them back out and vacuuming the floor after all?
I've been reading through a forum regarding stereo speaker wire. That positive 12 gauge positive that I want to run to the tailgate for the tire inflator to reach the rear wheels will have to run along a different channel, or they risk creating noise on the speakers due to cross talk.
I was working with the new passenger's side seat belt today. Turns out that I'm going to have to use the stock Chevy seat belt holder and mount. It's just a bar that extents from the corner of the roof and left side body. The problem is that I was able to cut the replacement's upper loop to get the new belt out. But modifying the stock holder is going to require some serious sawzall time because it's thick and automotive grade. My plan is to cut a slit right down the middle of the stock holder's loop to try and squeeze the new seat belt through it.
I have no idea what the back of a fuse box looks like? Guess I'll find out tomorrow? I'm running a custom 12V power port to my 3 way splitter so that it definitely has enough power to handle multiple 3.1A devices. I did this on my former Chevy HHR and on my motorhome and I like it a lot. Now that rear port is going to get everything that tire inflator can handle.
I definitely like working on cars in the evenings. Here in Far SE Ohio, it gets sweaty hot during the day in the summer. I'm thinking about changing it's oil soon because what's in there is new, but it's full of Seafoam. I didn't change the oil when the engine was still warm. That could have more easily removed any engine shavings. But in guessing the engine temp, it could be somewhat risky. It's a gloves on and long sleeve shirt procedure. What needs to go back in it is 4 quarts of 10W-30 (I think???) and some Lucas Oil additive.
When I opened the lid of one of my bins in the cargo hold, a couple of sharp pointed screws fell to the floor. The floor is rusting and has holes. So, now I'm thinking of pulling them back out and vacuuming the floor after all?
I've been reading through a forum regarding stereo speaker wire. That positive 12 gauge positive that I want to run to the tailgate for the tire inflator to reach the rear wheels will have to run along a different channel, or they risk creating noise on the speakers due to cross talk.
I was working with the new passenger's side seat belt today. Turns out that I'm going to have to use the stock Chevy seat belt holder and mount. It's just a bar that extents from the corner of the roof and left side body. The problem is that I was able to cut the replacement's upper loop to get the new belt out. But modifying the stock holder is going to require some serious sawzall time because it's thick and automotive grade. My plan is to cut a slit right down the middle of the stock holder's loop to try and squeeze the new seat belt through it.
I have no idea what the back of a fuse box looks like? Guess I'll find out tomorrow? I'm running a custom 12V power port to my 3 way splitter so that it definitely has enough power to handle multiple 3.1A devices. I did this on my former Chevy HHR and on my motorhome and I like it a lot. Now that rear port is going to get everything that tire inflator can handle.
I definitely like working on cars in the evenings. Here in Far SE Ohio, it gets sweaty hot during the day in the summer. I'm thinking about changing it's oil soon because what's in there is new, but it's full of Seafoam. I didn't change the oil when the engine was still warm. That could have more easily removed any engine shavings. But in guessing the engine temp, it could be somewhat risky. It's a gloves on and long sleeve shirt procedure. What needs to go back in it is 4 quarts of 10W-30 (I think???) and some Lucas Oil additive.
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