Work on Van Today

I ran the rear right positive speaker wire, but not the left yet.  I'm waiting to take off the dog house (interior engine hump cover) on my 1987 Chevy G20 Sportvan.  I have four gauges, three of which  and possibly two 12 gauge positive wires have to get through the firewall.  At present, I'm not sure how to disassemble the steering column to get to the ignition positive wire?  The dog house has to come off because there's access to the bottom of the stereo when it's off.

When I opened the lid of one of my bins in the cargo hold, a couple of sharp pointed screws fell to the floor.  The floor is rusting and has holes.  So, now I'm thinking of pulling them back out and vacuuming the floor after all?

I've been reading through a forum regarding stereo speaker wire.  That positive 12 gauge positive that I want to run to the tailgate for the tire inflator to reach the rear wheels will have to run along a different channel, or they risk creating noise on the speakers due to cross talk.

I was working with the new passenger's side seat belt today.  Turns out that I'm going to have to use the stock Chevy seat belt holder and mount.  It's just a bar that extents from the corner of the roof and left side body.  The problem is that I was able to cut the replacement's upper loop to get the new belt out.  But modifying the stock holder is going to require some serious sawzall time because it's thick and automotive grade.  My plan is to cut a slit right down the middle of the stock holder's loop to try and squeeze the new seat belt through it.

I have no idea what the back of a fuse box looks like?  Guess I'll find out tomorrow?  I'm running a custom 12V power port to my 3 way splitter so that it definitely has enough power to handle multiple 3.1A devices.  I did this on my former Chevy HHR and on my motorhome and I like it a lot.  Now that rear port is going to get everything that tire inflator can handle.

I definitely like working on cars in the evenings.  Here in Far SE Ohio, it gets sweaty hot during the day in the summer.  I'm thinking about changing it's oil soon because what's in there is new, but it's full of Seafoam.  I didn't change the oil when the engine was still warm.  That could have more easily removed any engine shavings.  But in guessing the engine temp, it could be somewhat risky.  It's a gloves on and long sleeve shirt procedure.  What needs to go back in it is 4 quarts of 10W-30 (I think???) and some Lucas Oil additive.

Motorhome Turned Over and Car Levels

After more than a week, the motorhome turned on and the engine is sounding like it should.

And I took my 2008 Chevy HHR LS for about a 40 mile drive in Far SE Ohio and the computer has yet to display another diagnostic code. Now that it's off, the battery is reading 12.2V when it's off and 14.8V when on.  Both are in the normal range. I'm starting to suspect that the spark plugs are fouled?

The oil level looks good. But it might need a little Dexcool in the radiator reservoir. The brake fluid looks fine. And the milage on the odometer is 204,448 miles.

Partial Tune-up: 2008 Chevy HHR

I changed the oil, air filter, cabin air filter and the gas vapor recycler in my 2008 Chevy HHR LS at the mileage displayed above.  The gas vapor recycler was so easy to replace that it didn't even need any tools.  I then used Torque Pro and Wi-Fi OBD II module to clear the fault codes.  For right now, the only thing that remains lit on the dashboard is a "Tire Service Monitor."  This Chevy breaks tire pressure monitors (TPM's) like crazy.  The last that I knew, they were $75 a piece and they always break on the right rear rim.  I haven't kept up with my tire rotations and I think that I blew a belt in that tire?  But I think it will get me by until next month?

The HHR was driven and arrived back at home at the mileage above.  The power improved, but I wasn't able to get a reading from the oil dip stick until I took the front end off of the ramps and ran it for about 5 minutes.  It spooked me for a minute as I went back over my steps, confirmed that the oil pan bolt was secured properly and there wasn't anything other than typical residue around the engine mounted oil tube.  I lowed the car on the basis that it had to be there.  But this isn't the first time that I got confused with Houdini engine oil in this car.  But it showed up.  I think that I need a new dip stick because the one that I have is corroded and confusing me when the oil is clean?

Accelerating in any gear was more smooth.  But this car is still pending a clutch replacement and there's a little slippage from that, but not as much as before with the old gas vapor recycler.  Considering that my dashboard computer display takes readings from multiple sensors that give me my fuel range and economy readings, I don't think that the new recycler is going to do much to improve what it already had?

I still have yet to clean the fuel injectors.  The HHR is about about 3/4 of a tank right now and I'll try to remember to do it when I refuel.  At this time, the engine is still going strong for it having been driven over 200K miles.

Oil Level and Chassis Door Prop

According to O'Reilly Auto Parts, my 5.8 liter engine takes 6.02 quarts of oil. My dip stick was reading that the oil level was high. But I don't remember putting in more oil than it really needs. One of two things wad wrong. Either there really was too much oil, or the markers on my dipstick are wrong. I tried to leak it before, but it really didn't change the reading. So today, I did an oil change at 71,565.8 miles and found the problem to be the latter. The dipstick took me and my mechanic on a wild goose chase.  The old couldn't be anymore than 1500 miles and 18 months old? The oil was replaced with Mobil 1's 5W-30 High Milage Advanced Full Synthetic product.

But what the heck... it runs better now.

I just installed a new prop to hold the  chassis door open. It was extremely simple to do.

Hike In Akron on the Ohio & Erie Canal Towpath Trail

A couple days ago, I noticed that the oil level in my Chevy HHR was critically low.  So, I filled it up with all 5 quarts of 5W30.  In doing it, I didn't use a funnel and got some motor oil on the engine block.  I thought that I had it all wiped down?

Today when I turned it on, there was thick smoke coming out of the the sides of the car and the exhaust.  I immediately shut it off!  I checked the oil level and now the dipstick reads as if it has 10 quarts in it.  And I don't think that the anti-freeze level changed?  From what I hear, what I saw should have been the result of a blown head gasket, or cracked block?  I may try to put it on ramps and follow up with it tomorrow?  When I tried to back it up, there wasn't a noticeable reduction in power.

But I had an engagement in Akron today as part of a Buckeye Trail Association contingent to a hike with Ohio State Representative Emilia Sykes.  So, I took the motorhome there and that's it's second 120 trip.  This morning before I left, I turned the engine on and the RPM's were still fluctuating, but it did it less this time and the trip on the freeway to Akron was no problem.  I messaged the chairman of the Crooked River Chapter of the BTA who covers that area and I told him that I was coming down, but there was a big question as to whether I was going to be able to park the motorhome in Downtown Akron???

She and a gentleman from the Ohio & Erie Canalway Association took a group and myself for a 2 mile round trip and tour of the towpath in the city.  This takes place on the Buckeye Trail's "Akron Section" and I passed through this area years ago before it was on the current route.  It use to be routed next to the Akron Zoo when I was hiking there.  The rule on Buckeye is after you've passed through an area, if it reroutes, you do not have to go back and claim the new one.  After today's event, a smaller group of us went to an Italian restaurant in Downtown Akron.

After I got done with that group, I drove to the nearest Speedway gas station.  The fuel gauge on the motorhome's dashboard doesn't work.  So, I use an app on my tablet.  It tracks the mileage in motion and moves the needle based on the motorhome's fuel range.  I calculate that by writing down the odometer mileage, getting its difference and dividing that by how many gallons it takes to fill it up?  Today, the MPG's were a little worse.

Possibly tomorrow, I'm going to look for a loose connection or hose.  Either on the spark plug wires, or on a hose somewhere?  I'm willing to bet that something came loose?  But I vaguely thought that my mechanic might have told me to disconnect the negative from one of my dual batteries before jumping the motorhome?  Everything online says that it should be fine with both connected as long as I idled my smaller Chevy HHR for 15 minutes or more with the clamps on (which was done) so that it wasn't as stressful on it's alternator.

Log 2014070201

The oil and it's filter have been changed.  And the milage on the odometer is 136,872mi and the Oil Life Indicator has been reset.

Log 2014070101

So my E85 experiment was botched because I still have 5qts of dirty motor oil in the car.  But with that oil, I can say that at 65MPH, my 6 year old 2008 Chevy HHR LS was averaging 33MPG, which is right where it should be with regular 87 octane unleaded gasoline (what it's rated for).  I just got off the road about 20 minutes ago and the car is in the garage bay on ramps and cooling off before I attempt to drain the oil pan.

My day started with a 27mi trip to the VA medical center in Cleveland of Cuyahoga County.  Afterwards, I purchased a drill bit extension with a hex end and a 4 flat trailer lighting harness test connector from Harbor Freight in Eastlake of Lake County.  I then realized that I needed to replace all of my metal drill bits and drivers with one's that have hex bottoms.  Harbor Freight didn't have any that came with a case, so I drove down to Sears in Mentor of Lake County and picked some up there.

A couple of days ago, I cut out 8 holes in the trailer's floor for some big recessed hooks that will secure the bins when their transported over the axle.  They're metal D-rings on a 5" square plate.  Well initially, I purchased four of them and forgot where I got them from.  So, I drove to Tractor Supply in Chardon of Geauga County and they didn't have them.  But I did get some steel strips that I plan on cutting down to help brace recessed hook mounts.  Because after cutting the floor, I realized that I made two rows of four holes and the only thing that supports them are little edges of 1" thick ply wood.

I then went to Auto Zone in the same city to see if they had my hooks... and they did not.  But one of their employees gave me a lead on a hardware in Montville Township of Geauga County.  I called them up and found that I had 55 minutes to get there before they closed, so I left Chardon immediately.

When I got to Hemly Hardware Store, I found that not only did they have my other four recessed hooks, but they sold the nuts, bolts and washers by weight.  And they had an assortment of steel, both plates and strips in what I estimate to be a 20' x 30' area.  I told people on Facebook that I "struck gold."  Tractor supply has some steal strips at retail, but this place has much more and at different widths, too.  The other thing that I liked about them is that they had a better selection of metal cutting reciprocating saw blades than Home Depot or Lowes.  They had a box of Diablo's there retailing at $85 on the shelf.  I really wonder what those could do???  As somebody who's still inexperienced with that saw, I was rather impressed with the Diablo's that I currently own that I used to saw through a 17mm bolt head which connected the stabilizer bar link to my front struts and stabilizer bar (itself).  Finally, there's a good assortment of trailer supplies there, too.

Hemly Tool Hardware Store
16445 GAR Hwy
Montville, OH 44064
(440) 968-3717

GAR stands for the Grand Army of the Republic and is routed as US-6.

Log 2013092701

I changed the spark plugs at 127,060mi.  The four new ones are Iridium, just like their predecessors.  The spark plug socket wouldn't let go of a newly mounted spark plug unless I used a set of needle nose pliers to pull it out.  I did notice oil in the passenger's and driver's side most spark plug wells.  It could be time for a new head gasket.

Log 2013091601

filling master cylinder
I do not prefer using a cyphon pump. I can't get it to pump yet with out plugging one end with my thumb.
My trailer will now carry DOT3 Brake Fluid, a corrosive chemical.
I rebuilt the right rear brake system today and installed a new brake cylinder at 126,563 miles on my 2008 Chevy HHR.  It seems to be working.  But my brake pedal goes almost all the way to the floor.  Also, a new cabin air filer was installed.
I changed the oil, but later found out that I purchased the wrong oil filter. So, I test drove the car afterwards.  It does brake, but still, my foot goes all the way to the floor. At present, I believe that it will still haul my trailer, but on county roads and under 45MPH. The trailer's light enough for me to pick up still.  At present, I guess that my next camp, Harrison Lake State Park will be about 45 miles from here.
I can rule out the hydrolic brake system's master cylinder as a problem since the brakes were responding today. That leaves only one problem to check... When the previous brake cylinder was destroyed, it unleashed an ample supply of hydrolic brake fluid inside the drum.  At which time, the seals on the hydrolic fluid ruptured, causing air to get in the lines.  That air needs to be relieved by bleeding the fluid to that brake only.
Now, I just hand crafted a "2nd person." Apparently, somebody needs to depress the brake, while another person releases one of the brake's relief nuts under the car.  That "2nd person" is a hand crafted 2" x 2" made to fit between the driver's seat and the depressed brake pedal.  What I have to do is release the nut and watch for air bubbles in the leaking brake fluid, while at the same time monitoring the brake fluid resevoir under the hood to make sure it doesn't run out of fluid in the process. She (the car) just has to get me to Harrison and I'll have all the time in the world to get done there.  Right now, because of the state campsite maximum stay is 14 days, my time will be up in about 40 hours from now, or 1300hrs on the 18th. She'll do it so long as I bleed it at Harrison.
While I was out, I drove to Napoleon on the old Buckeye Trail route, where I picked up 5 quarts of oil, the proper oil filter, a wire spark plug gapper, a 3/8th nut socket for the oil filter canister and some shop towels. Tomorrow, I plan to spend the day packing and maybe do some more tune ups and repairs.