My bicycle rim driven USB Generator arrived from usbfever.com in Hong Kong via the US Postal Service today, as well as the bicycle GPS mount for my Garmin eTrex 20. That came from Guangzhou, a city in the Guangdong providene in the People's Republic of China, which also arrived via USPS. As noted in this log previously, my former chain driven USB generator also came from Hong Kong.
Before the chain generator started to cease, it would only generate power when the chain was in motion. That was enough to prolong my smartphone's battery, but it wasn't always enough to stabilize it's pre-ride level. Anyways, it only had a 1350mAh generator on it. I also had the cellphone battery and the chain generator connected on a parallel circuit (they were both directly connected to a 4 USB port hub).
In the past, the bike battery would shut off after about 10 minutes in that configuration when supplying power to both the hand GPS and smartphone. I'm hoping that when I configure them next time to be in a series circuit, that I can generate enough power to feed them both and stay on. But I'll say this for the new rim generator... it did not come shipped with any installation or operational instructions all. But I think that will be alright because there's really not much to it. Just the generator with mounting forks, two holes, two bolts with butterfly nuts and some rubber gaskets.
On new NiMH AA batteries, the eTrex 20 can stay on for 26 - 39 continuous hours without having to recharge. Unfortunately, the device itself can not recharge the batteries. That must take place in a separate AC to DC wall charger. And I don't see myself as needing power from the bike battery, or the rim generator unless the field GPS is out of power and I'm out of charged batteries, or the temperature dips down to less than 37°F.
Showing posts with label problems. Show all posts
Showing posts with label problems. Show all posts
2014/11/12
2014/07/19
Log 2014071901
- At this time, it's difficult to write new log entries because the car and trailer are being prepped for departure for this upcoming recreational trip.
- As far as I can tell, my Nishiki Colorado mountain bike is running at peak efficiency. The 3" wide chubbys are mounted on the rims at the moment. Chubbys are tires that hardly have any tread. So, they're like road (racing) bike tires, but they're as wide as traditional mountain bike all terrain tires. The first three days of cycling on the American Discovery Trail in Ohio will be on improved surfaces.
- I just disposed of the rear tire that came stock with the bicycle about 2 years ago. I damaged the sidewall using a screw driver to dismount the tire & tube. These days, I use two tire levers and they work so quickly and well that I swear by them. Nonetheless, both front and back knobby (all terrain mountain bike) tires need to be replaced because I don't think that the chubbys have the traction to handle the backcountry roads in Southern Ohio.
- The rear left drum brake system in my 2008 Chevy HHR LS was giving me problems. After the tension bar fell out for a 3rd time, I got a new kit and put it back together. The problem is that if you unscrew the brake shoe separator too much, the drum won't fit back on, or it will cease. If you screw it in, the brakes will clear the drum, but a spring that spans from what I like to call the "ear" (which is mounted to the left brake shoe) to a hole on the right shoe. If the hook of the spring merely sits (and is not tautly clipped inside) within the hole, it will eventually fall out. That in turn will cause the ear and brake separator to fall. The system will then rely on the "W" clip to force the brake shoes and caliper back, but it's not good enough. Eventually, the contact on one of the brake shoes will come out of the caliper's groove, causing the "W" clip to bring it back cockeyed. The next time you press the brakes, one of the pistons is going to make contact with the misaligned shoe. And with enough pressure from the master cylinder, it will cause it to come out, bend and break, spewing brake fluid inside the drum and causing the car to loose the ability to brake until the system is entirely out of fluid.
What I did this time was got one of the forks on the separator unscrewed as much as as the drum could handle with out ceasing. Afterwards, I used the teeth that the tensioner uses with my fingers to expand the separater out more until the the hook in its hole pulled tight. The drum mounted afterwards, but the car failed it's next braking test on Seeley Road in LeRoy Township of Lake County while pumping them coming down a hill. For those of you who don't know, Seeley Road has the steepest hill on a dirt road that also includes two 90° hairpin turns on it, plus a road surface that closely resembles that which the Chevy will be driving on in Southern Ohio in the upcoming weeks.
I was caused to remove the rear left wheel and remount the spring on the shoes in a trailhead before I turned and came back home. The next day, I went back there to repeat the test, but this time, I didn't pump them. The spring maintained its mount in the brake shoe hole. But I think I might have a potential problem with the tensioner while pumping the brakes. Basically, take your left hand and cause your fingers to make the first two bends, but not the third. Rest your thumb flat on top, but extend your pinky finger completely out. This is what the tensioner looks like, but it's smaller. The part that is your pinky finger is what makes contact with the gear teeth that affection the tension of the brake separator. And the other end of this spring is connected to this "ear" piece somewhere above there.
- Electrical conduit has been installed on my Harbor Freight Tools 4' x 8' Utility Hauling Trailer around as many wires as was feasible.
- A new hole was drilled in the hull of the doughnut/ battery compartment. I fed the wires for the new trailer lighting harness through them, wired them up and siliconed the remainder of the hole shut.
- A new mount was installed on the bar of my trailer hitch to keep my new outdoor trailer harness in place while I plug, unplug it and tow.
- And in the midst of everything else being done, I've been packing my own personal belonging here at Home Port, transporting them to Storage B and helping my family put my grandparents condo on the market and making runs to the landfill.
- As far as I can tell, my Nishiki Colorado mountain bike is running at peak efficiency. The 3" wide chubbys are mounted on the rims at the moment. Chubbys are tires that hardly have any tread. So, they're like road (racing) bike tires, but they're as wide as traditional mountain bike all terrain tires. The first three days of cycling on the American Discovery Trail in Ohio will be on improved surfaces.
- I just disposed of the rear tire that came stock with the bicycle about 2 years ago. I damaged the sidewall using a screw driver to dismount the tire & tube. These days, I use two tire levers and they work so quickly and well that I swear by them. Nonetheless, both front and back knobby (all terrain mountain bike) tires need to be replaced because I don't think that the chubbys have the traction to handle the backcountry roads in Southern Ohio.
- The rear left drum brake system in my 2008 Chevy HHR LS was giving me problems. After the tension bar fell out for a 3rd time, I got a new kit and put it back together. The problem is that if you unscrew the brake shoe separator too much, the drum won't fit back on, or it will cease. If you screw it in, the brakes will clear the drum, but a spring that spans from what I like to call the "ear" (which is mounted to the left brake shoe) to a hole on the right shoe. If the hook of the spring merely sits (and is not tautly clipped inside) within the hole, it will eventually fall out. That in turn will cause the ear and brake separator to fall. The system will then rely on the "W" clip to force the brake shoes and caliper back, but it's not good enough. Eventually, the contact on one of the brake shoes will come out of the caliper's groove, causing the "W" clip to bring it back cockeyed. The next time you press the brakes, one of the pistons is going to make contact with the misaligned shoe. And with enough pressure from the master cylinder, it will cause it to come out, bend and break, spewing brake fluid inside the drum and causing the car to loose the ability to brake until the system is entirely out of fluid.
What I did this time was got one of the forks on the separator unscrewed as much as as the drum could handle with out ceasing. Afterwards, I used the teeth that the tensioner uses with my fingers to expand the separater out more until the the hook in its hole pulled tight. The drum mounted afterwards, but the car failed it's next braking test on Seeley Road in LeRoy Township of Lake County while pumping them coming down a hill. For those of you who don't know, Seeley Road has the steepest hill on a dirt road that also includes two 90° hairpin turns on it, plus a road surface that closely resembles that which the Chevy will be driving on in Southern Ohio in the upcoming weeks.
I was caused to remove the rear left wheel and remount the spring on the shoes in a trailhead before I turned and came back home. The next day, I went back there to repeat the test, but this time, I didn't pump them. The spring maintained its mount in the brake shoe hole. But I think I might have a potential problem with the tensioner while pumping the brakes. Basically, take your left hand and cause your fingers to make the first two bends, but not the third. Rest your thumb flat on top, but extend your pinky finger completely out. This is what the tensioner looks like, but it's smaller. The part that is your pinky finger is what makes contact with the gear teeth that affection the tension of the brake separator. And the other end of this spring is connected to this "ear" piece somewhere above there.
- Electrical conduit has been installed on my Harbor Freight Tools 4' x 8' Utility Hauling Trailer around as many wires as was feasible.
- A new hole was drilled in the hull of the doughnut/ battery compartment. I fed the wires for the new trailer lighting harness through them, wired them up and siliconed the remainder of the hole shut.
- A new mount was installed on the bar of my trailer hitch to keep my new outdoor trailer harness in place while I plug, unplug it and tow.
- And in the midst of everything else being done, I've been packing my own personal belonging here at Home Port, transporting them to Storage B and helping my family put my grandparents condo on the market and making runs to the landfill.
2014/03/15
Log 2014031501
I had a Dental appointment yesterday, but the remaining entries for local transit agencies from OTHR's directory were input to Microsoft Outlook, which I hope to create a downloadable CSV file from. In addition to that, there were some computer systems issues that I took care of today. My machines are running fine now. But there's data being transferred between computers on this project and I need my network and cloud storage to "fire on all cylinders."
2014/02/15
Log 2014021501
A new windshield was installed on my 2008 Chevy HHR LS at 133,064 miles. There was a crack in the upper passenger's side corner of the previous one. I'm not sure how I got it. This is the 3rd replacement that I've had in this vehicle. It took about 4 hours to install at Glass Doctor on Carnegie Avenue in the Fairfax neighborhood of Cleveland in Cuyahoga County. I was referred there by a local company in Mentor of Lake County.
Work was done today. The work order number is 1-217811. The new windshield, installation and a 12 month warranty plus tax came out to be a total of $367.98. The warranty will not include parts and labor. Today that was $139.95 of said total.
As far as leaving for my next recreation trip, this was a big task that needed to be completed and it was in it's way. I already have the new head gasket, now I have to get a set of all four struts and possible springs. When I have those installed, I might as well have the mechanic bleed the brake lines, replace that fluid and have them change the transmission fluid (since it's behind the front driver's side wheel) while their at it.
I intended on cycling between Brecksville Station and the Carnegie Bridge on the Ohio-to-Erie Trail, concurrent with the Ohio & Erie Canal Towpath Trail mostly. But the car needed to be at the shop at 0800hrs and I was late getting up. So, I didn't have enough time to rack the bicycle on the car. And my back is still having problems, so hiking it wasn't much of an option. Instead, I visited the Botanical Gardens on Wade Oval and enjoyed the Costa Rican forest there.
Work was done today. The work order number is 1-217811. The new windshield, installation and a 12 month warranty plus tax came out to be a total of $367.98. The warranty will not include parts and labor. Today that was $139.95 of said total.
As far as leaving for my next recreation trip, this was a big task that needed to be completed and it was in it's way. I already have the new head gasket, now I have to get a set of all four struts and possible springs. When I have those installed, I might as well have the mechanic bleed the brake lines, replace that fluid and have them change the transmission fluid (since it's behind the front driver's side wheel) while their at it.
I intended on cycling between Brecksville Station and the Carnegie Bridge on the Ohio-to-Erie Trail, concurrent with the Ohio & Erie Canal Towpath Trail mostly. But the car needed to be at the shop at 0800hrs and I was late getting up. So, I didn't have enough time to rack the bicycle on the car. And my back is still having problems, so hiking it wasn't much of an option. Instead, I visited the Botanical Gardens on Wade Oval and enjoyed the Costa Rican forest there.
2013/09/13
Log 2013091301
Some how, I transposed the date of the BTA Informational Booth with Liz D from Saturday the 7th to Friday the 13th. I alerted the staff at the elementary school, got stopped by a Sheriff's Deputy (because of it) and I'm disoriented trying to figure out how I made this error.
Well I know now. On the 6th, I finished up my last 32mi on the NCT - NW Ohio Independant. It spilled very late into the morning on the 7th. So, I probably went to bed having dismissed the the event alarm the day before, or it went off in my sleep.
So I spent the rest of the morning shopping at Walmart and the auto parts store. I got a new rachet set, so I can remove the old one out of my tool bin and into the spare tire compartment incase the car breaks without the trailer. Then I purchased two small tool boxes to prop and relieve my tool basket in the tool bin. I also purchased one torque wrench for a possible belt replcement and a 18 1/2" breaker bar.
A new propane two burner range was picked up today along with a 2 year extended warranty. The warranty was registered with Wal-Mart's service on-line today.
Pictured here is the condition of my passenger's side rear brake shoes and hardware. What is not pictured is the caliper, which is its boots are chewed up and the piston is warped and the unit is spitting brake fluid inside the drum. Overall, I'd say that their condition is "destroyed." The replacement drum cylinder (containing the caliper) is scheduled to arrive at 7pm tonight in Napoleon of Henry County. I won't be there to pick it up until tomorrow.
The tail gate had some problems releasing today. So, I performed some diagnostics. It indeed has a 20 amp fuse along with its relay and both are in perfect working order. But the latch itself is weak. Sometimes I have to activate the electronic hand popper three times to get it to release.
Well I know now. On the 6th, I finished up my last 32mi on the NCT - NW Ohio Independant. It spilled very late into the morning on the 7th. So, I probably went to bed having dismissed the the event alarm the day before, or it went off in my sleep.
So I spent the rest of the morning shopping at Walmart and the auto parts store. I got a new rachet set, so I can remove the old one out of my tool bin and into the spare tire compartment incase the car breaks without the trailer. Then I purchased two small tool boxes to prop and relieve my tool basket in the tool bin. I also purchased one torque wrench for a possible belt replcement and a 18 1/2" breaker bar.
A new propane two burner range was picked up today along with a 2 year extended warranty. The warranty was registered with Wal-Mart's service on-line today.
Pictured here is the condition of my passenger's side rear brake shoes and hardware. What is not pictured is the caliper, which is its boots are chewed up and the piston is warped and the unit is spitting brake fluid inside the drum. Overall, I'd say that their condition is "destroyed." The replacement drum cylinder (containing the caliper) is scheduled to arrive at 7pm tonight in Napoleon of Henry County. I won't be there to pick it up until tomorrow.
The tail gate had some problems releasing today. So, I performed some diagnostics. It indeed has a 20 amp fuse along with its relay and both are in perfect working order. But the latch itself is weak. Sometimes I have to activate the electronic hand popper three times to get it to release.
2013/08/24
Log 2013082401
There's no point in waiting until tomorrow to leave. I think I'll leave tonight. I think that the ear shaped piece that is supposed to hold a spring on my right rear brake shoe is floating around the drum somewhere and a couple days ago, the top of the shoe lost contact with its piston.
I'm going to my parent's camper in Sandusky next and its only 42mi. I think I'd rather service it there.
I'm going to my parent's camper in Sandusky next and its only 42mi. I think I'd rather service it there.
2013/07/19
Log 2013071901
As I thought, I've been driving around, get back to my grandma's house and the tailgate latch releases, door comes open. It could still be a bad relay for all I know. The mechanical switch in that unit might be faulty? Or, I could have a short in the wiring, which the driver's side reverse lamp has been showing signs of that. Wiring encased in black plastic conduits that run underneigth the back seats. Since they are removed, the wiring conduit is exposed.
Regardless, I have to get manual control of it now. With the trailgate open, I was able to use a flash light to look for a loop. I'm unable to see it. So, I'm going to take a crow bar and peel off its shielding until I can find something that I can get some paracord around.
Regardless, I have to get manual control of it now. With the trailgate open, I was able to use a flash light to look for a loop. I'm unable to see it. So, I'm going to take a crow bar and peel off its shielding until I can find something that I can get some paracord around.
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