Log 2014092402

The mileage on my 2008 Chevy HHR LS is as pictured.

Took the HHR on the same drive as before with the three way interchange that has the 45MPH advisory ramps after I replaced the missing bolt. Performance on both turns are good enough to return to Southern Ohio, but the right turn still concerns me and I think it might have something to do with the stabilizer bar link that I installed months ago?

And when I brought it down from the jack today, I noticed the left side slouching. Well, it doesn't always do that and I didn't jack on the suspension either.

Log 2014092401

The mileage on my 2008 Chevy HHR LS is as pictured. Today, I replaced the missing bolt in my axle mount frame. There are a total of three and they mount the wheel bearing.

Log 2014092101

This is the back side of the frame on my 2008 Chevy HHR LS, which mounts the front left wheel bearing. If you notice that there's a hole, that's because there's a 3" long bolt missing. This is something that has to be replaced at the Parts Department of a Chevrolet dealership.  And if I want it that day, it will probably have to be a department if a dealership that has a body shop.

Log 2014061601

Today, I broke through the second mounting bolt on the left side stabilizer bar link of my 2008 Chevy HHR LS.  The last time, I burned up a few Diablo blades on the Sawzall and so I was searching for alternatives today.  Yesterday, I mounted the new left side wheel bearing and in preparation to bleed the brakes, I re-mounted the left side caliper and pads.  So my angle to drill it from wasn't as open today as it was before.

I started using a butane torch today, but several minutes in, I remembed something about the stabilizer bar being made out of tempered steel and promptly quit.  Yesterday, I purchased a drill bit extension from Lowe's in Mentor of Lake County.  But to my chagrin, it only extends 3/8ths drill bits and I was very disappointed.  With the Diablo blades on the Sawzall, I was able cut most of the hex off of the bolt.  But because the blade was so wide, it left a sliver of the hex still on there.  So, I mounted a metal cutting blade of standard width and was able to slice it off without damaging the stabilizer bar.

Afterwards, I took off the right fender.  It was just a series of bolts.  But to my chagrin, the after market replacement fender came with it's own eye socket wielded to it.  Now, I have an extra.  But the replacement didn't come with any insulation.  I'm thinking that I might be able to reuse the one from the old fender.  As for installing, I've decided that I'm going to "sleep on it."  Considering the amount of bolts it and the under shielding has, I'm wondering if that is going to be a mistake?

I was about the bleed the left front caliper solo today, but didn't have a clear tube big enough to fit around the bleeding nut.  And I'm concerned about no doing it right, so either I need a vacuum bleeding kit, or I should just task it out to the mechanic?  I think I'm going to go with the latter. Because right now, I'm at a loss as to where the manual transaxle "check/fill" nut is.  I think its to the left of the fuse block and has a hex key that is identical to the drain plug.

With all that being said, there'a bald spot on the table where I layout all of my new auto parts now.