I was thinking about publishing data on regional, national and international transit along the North Country Trail. Considering that the North Country concurrency with Buckeye is 917 of its 1444 miles, I might as well do the rest of Buckeye as well. But I think that the BT is now in need of a new logistics diagnostic done at the generally 10 mile per day hiking rate. I think that I last did it using transit and since that site is off-line, I think that the public needs to know how 10 miler comparable this trail is without it?
That's going to entail the updating of my Buckeye Trail custom tracks and map points. I'll have to sift through the entire circuit's maps and map updates just to make sure everything is current. And I prefer to do these in the winter if I can? These are going to be courtesy of Adventurer's Project and available in the "Special Services and Map Repository" section of it's website.
The Regional+ transit data is going to be like a stripped down version of the Ohio Transit Hiker's Resource. Local transit lines and services will be limited to getting from the regional, national and international amenities to the trail by much fewer ways. In this case, it makes sense to do the non-transit 10 miler diagnostic first to so I know how to affect the local camping/ lodging situation (if I can).
This particular diagnostic will be on camping amenities alone. The Buckeye Trail is a camping/ lodging dependent trail. But lately, the market is demanding camping only. If this diagnostic serves anything, it might serve to inform the audience that their demand is futile?
Showing posts with label diagnostic. Show all posts
Showing posts with label diagnostic. Show all posts
2019/05/10
2015/03/29
Log 2015032901
Today, I moved several items to my relatives house and finally got my 3T jack over to my brothers. My 2008 Chevy HHR LS is only 1.55T, but the 2T jacks don't always lift it high enough for certain projects. My other 3T jack has an attachment with adjustable arms and pads that can lift two wheels off of the ground at once. When the tires need to be rotated on the HHR, they go back to front and front to back. And the only way to change them safely (that I know of) is either with a garage lift, or a jack with this attachment. The Chevy has limited places to lift it and the "T" attachment barely does the job.
The Cramper's shell, expandable floor and twin size memory foam mattress is also at a relatives house and need to be moved. But I discovered that the garage bay that I've been doing my recent automotive work is unoccupied. After I had my alignment and balances done on the wheels, I discovered that the HHR is still pulling to the left. Today, I discovered that isn't always true, which leads me to believe that the problem isn't the tension on the front brakes, but that one of the brake disc pads has come unseated and may need some replacement hardware.
That will give me some space and time to perform an electrical diagnostic on the rear tailgate release system. I have a theory on where it's problems might be. When I took out the backseats, there were several conduits running the top of the underside buckets. I may not have taken into account that the heavy gear that I load on top of it all might damage the wiring. And since the tailgate release motor isn't throwing fuses when activated, my guess is that I have a partially severed wire that is not making contact with any metal. And since electricity would be flowing along a diminished channel, it could turn the motor on, but not give it enough power to totally pop the tailgate.
To test that, what needs to be done first is an inline fuse of the right amperage would need to be crimped into wire of a similar gauge. One end would be attached directly to the battery's positive terminal, where the other would crimp into the electronic hand release pad. Then a temporary ground wire of similar gauge would have to be attached to the body and then to the release pad's negative wire. This is because you always power things up + then -. And the existing ground probably leads to the body (and not to the battery), it needs to be by-passed as well.
If the tailgate latch pops with the vigor that it should, then there is no doubt that I have a wiring problem elsewhere. If the tailgate release does not pop with such vigor, then wiring is bad between the release pad and the motor. I'm certain that it is not the motor or the pad because I had them both replaced with new units and the symptoms still persisted.
- My 1/2" socket driver is missing
The Cramper's shell, expandable floor and twin size memory foam mattress is also at a relatives house and need to be moved. But I discovered that the garage bay that I've been doing my recent automotive work is unoccupied. After I had my alignment and balances done on the wheels, I discovered that the HHR is still pulling to the left. Today, I discovered that isn't always true, which leads me to believe that the problem isn't the tension on the front brakes, but that one of the brake disc pads has come unseated and may need some replacement hardware.
That will give me some space and time to perform an electrical diagnostic on the rear tailgate release system. I have a theory on where it's problems might be. When I took out the backseats, there were several conduits running the top of the underside buckets. I may not have taken into account that the heavy gear that I load on top of it all might damage the wiring. And since the tailgate release motor isn't throwing fuses when activated, my guess is that I have a partially severed wire that is not making contact with any metal. And since electricity would be flowing along a diminished channel, it could turn the motor on, but not give it enough power to totally pop the tailgate.
To test that, what needs to be done first is an inline fuse of the right amperage would need to be crimped into wire of a similar gauge. One end would be attached directly to the battery's positive terminal, where the other would crimp into the electronic hand release pad. Then a temporary ground wire of similar gauge would have to be attached to the body and then to the release pad's negative wire. This is because you always power things up + then -. And the existing ground probably leads to the body (and not to the battery), it needs to be by-passed as well.
If the tailgate latch pops with the vigor that it should, then there is no doubt that I have a wiring problem elsewhere. If the tailgate release does not pop with such vigor, then wiring is bad between the release pad and the motor. I'm certain that it is not the motor or the pad because I had them both replaced with new units and the symptoms still persisted.
- My 1/2" socket driver is missing
Subscribe to:
Posts (Atom)